Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
Now, what was to be done,—stand still and wait? Yes, it was all we were
able to do, for we knew not where to go. By this time we noticed the
villagers were wild with excitement. Men and women ran up the hill with
clubs and pickaxes raised in the air; children came running too, each
armed with stones. Every one of them seemed determined to hurt us, if
possible. Their voices were pitched high, and such a furious set of
people I had never seen before. We were a scared set of tourists. To add
to our dismay, stones were hurled in our midst. Many of them hit the poor
horses, my own faithful animal being among the number. I shall never
forget how suddenly he turned and what a narrow escape I had from going
headlong over the side of the hill. I begged to be taken from my horse,
but was not allowed to be upon my feet for fear of being in greater
danger.
That was a very distressing time for us, boys and girls, for we did not
expect to escape without injury. The dear Lord was good, for his watchful
eye was over us and every one quit the place unharmed. My nervous system
received a severe shock, which it has taken all of these years to recover
from. The Arabs did not release the dragoman until he paid them a large
sum of money, and at the end of our journey each one of the party was
requested to pay a certain sum of money extra to help pay for the release
of our guide.
Ain Fijeh had lost all attractions for us, and as soon as possible we
rode away, leaving its disagreeable inhabitants behind, hoping never to
be in such an unpleasant situation again. It was the first day of April.
Had we been in America, we would have thought the people were having a
little fun at our expense; but not so there, for money was what they
desired, and money they received before we were allowed to go free.
As we proceeded on our way to camp great ledges of rocks were passed
over. Sometimes we rode through green fields, when our mind was carried
back to the lunching place and the yelling villagers. My memory of the
country through which we passed is not vivid, for my mind and feelings
then were not in trim to enjoy either the country or a ride through it.
The camping place for that night is spoken of as being fine, but I cannot
testify as to its beauty. One thing I am sure of,—that our rest during
that night was much disturbed by thoughts of the day’s experience.
We left camp early next morning, and to our sorrow the rain came down in
torrents. Oh, how unpleasant it was! We had no desire to visit the tomb
of Abel, which we passed. We rode on, preferring to visit a place of
shelter and stay there while the rain continued to fall. It was useless,
however, to think of that pleasure; so we made the best of the situation,
feeling sure that only a few more days of hard riding and exposure were
in store for us, when our journey through the strange land would be ended.