Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
Other travelers were resting in the same house, and in the court could be
seen horses, donkeys and camels. It was quite amusing to watch a clumsy
camel get through the small entrance gate to the court. It was first
compelled to get down upon its knees to have the burden removed, after
which some manœuvering was necessary to get the animal inside, for the
large hump was very much in the way. The stupid animal entered by and by,
and we saw it no more, for by that time we rode away from the house of
the kind Arab people.
We had traveled twenty-five miles during the day, wet to the skin and
chilled to the bone. Late in the evening we reached camp, with a longing
desire for a good, warm fire. Money could not purchase such a luxury
there, so we were compelled to be reconciled to the surroundings.
We seemed to be unfortunate that night, for during the day some of the
pack-mules had fallen into the water; so the tents and bedding were wet
through and through. Our tent and some bedclothes were among the wet
ones, and I’ll tell you, children, our comfort for that night did not
seem very flattering. It was very hard work to have cheerful faces, and
it was a great deal harder to keep from wishing we were at home, where
there was no end of comfort. We crept into our little beds, shivering,
hoping to be warm at least by morning.
All night long the rain came down fast, and about midnight the side of
our tent blew in, making the situation more unpleasant. We called the
dragoman, telling him of our perplexing condition, and he in turn called
up the poor, shivering Arab servants, who pounded the tent pins down more
tightly; after which quiet reigned and an effort was made to sleep. We
were on the Mountains of Lebanon and the air was cold, so we expected to
shiver as did the Arab men.
The next morning early we started for Baalbek, notwithstanding the rain
storm which was still in progress. We mounted our horses in a tent that
morning. The horses seemed wonderfully large standing there waiting for
the riders. The saddles were dripping wet, and of course the poor animals
were in like condition. That morning the dragoman’s counts and my leap
did not come out even, for when he said, “Now ready,” I had not reached
the back of my faithful friend. But with patience on the part of the
guide, and quite an effort on my part, the sitting place was gained and
we rode on out in the rain.
As we journeyed along snow commenced falling, and we wondered what next.
Such a discouraged set of tourists you never saw, I know. We were ill
prepared for winter weather, and the Australian lady who had never seen
snow was getting all she desired of it. Her wraps were quite thin, and,
like myself, she shivered as we went along.
My hands were not as well protected as they might have been had we
thought of snow. As it was I wore a thin pair of knit mittens which were
wet during the entire ride of sixteen miles.