Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
Bad weather never seemed to bring changes in our programme of travel, so
we bravely weathered the rain which had continued to fall, and onward
we rode toward Baalbek. The air had become uncomfortably chilly, and a
great desire for a sheltered place was created within us. It seemed to
be the order of our trip to have unpleasant things happening, and for
that particular day an accident was recorded; not a serious one, yet an
accident.
We were riding by a swiftly flowing mountain river, when the horse which
an English lady was riding made a misstep and both of them went down into
the water. The animal was unable to help himself and it was therefore
necessary for some of the men to render assistance. In good time both
horse and rider reached land without injury.
Wet clothing was the result of that accident, and now for certain a
good, warm fire was needed. Many of us could sympathize with the lady,
for we were in the same condition, although our clothing became wet
from the rain and hers from the river; therefore we knew, to our sorrow,
how uncomfortable she was. Not any of the company had much to say while
riding along, but we kept up a wonderful thinking.
Our first stopping place after the accident was in a small village where
the people were unusually friendly. We were invited into their homes and
we gladly accepted the kind invitation. Dripping wet we rode through the
little entrance-gate into the court, and while the rain was pouring down
upon us we dismounted, only too thankful to be under roof, where, for a
short season at least, the rain would cease to beat upon us. Our joy was
great when a fire was started in the fireplace in one corner of a room.
I can see that room yet—in my mind’s eye—cheerless and unattractive, not
a window was to be seen, and in the wall were hollow places where the
family slept at night. But the shelter and the fire we wanted, and that
we had, caring but little for the dirt and the cheerless home.
The ladies seemed to think the room was all their own, for immediately
they took possession of it, each one getting as close to the fire as
possible, all intent on drying their soaking wet garments. The native
women were very much interested in our clothing, examining each piece
with a great deal of pleasure. They had a strong desire to converse with
us, but there was entirely too much difference in our language, for not
one of us could speak Arabic. They jabbered away at us, and we stood
smiling like a lot of schoolgirls.
One old woman couldn’t stand it to be near and not converse, so she went
after the dragoman, brought him in and used him as an interpreter. The
conversation was laughable, but not of long duration, for it was time to
leave there and ride on.
The men sat in a room adjoining ours, and I believe it was much dirtier;
but we were quite well used to filth by that time, so it failed to be a
rarity.