Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
Jaffa seemed very far away when we first thought of taking a journey
through Palestine; but each day shortened the time until less than
twenty-four hours remained, and then the next thing we knew the city was
in view. The tourists commenced to talk about the dangerous landing and
wish it were over with; and we of course were among the number.
Almost every one going to Jerusalem goes to the port of Jaffa. It is a
very dangerous landing, because of its rocky coast. There are large,
black rocks extending far out in the sea, and when the waves run high
the little boats are dashed upon them, and all are lost. Sometimes ships
are obliged to go on to the next port without landing a passenger or
discharging the cargo.
There was so much noise and confusion at the landing, almost enough to
scare a timid person. Boatmen crowded around the passengers and shouted
at the top of their voices, each one trying to see how many passengers
he could get, just like the cabmen at depots in our cities. I kept away
from the noise as much as possible, and found a good hiding place in the
stateroom, where they were not allowed to go. There I stayed until almost
all the passengers had gone ashore.
There was a flight of steps on one side of the steamer, held in place
by ropes, and quite a thick rope was used for a railing. The steps were
used only by the passengers, and when needed no more by them were drawn
up and fastened to the side of the ship. Those steps were somewhat
shaky, for every time a person went down one step the whole flight
took to shaking. Oh, how it made me tremble! for it seemed as though it
were loose and would surely come down, and the passenger along with it.
Sometimes the little boat was at the foot of the steps (for I have told
you it was necessary to go ashore in small boats), and sometimes it was
far away from them; so there was a quick movement needed if you were to
be successful in getting in before a wave washed it away.