Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
The boatmen are strong looking fellows, and the great sinews stand out
on their arms so plainly that every one can be counted if you desire to
do so. Their shirt sleeves were rolled up above the elbow, and no shoes
were upon their feet. To see them is to impress one with their strength.
One by one the gentlemen and ladies passed down the steps, each keeping
his feelings to himself. Our turn came, so with weak and trembling
knees we went down, keeping our eyes upon the boat which was tossing
and pitching at a rapid rate at the foot of the steps. It seemed almost
out of the question to step into it. Just as the attempt was to be made
one of the Arab boatmen took me, and without much of an effort seated
me in the little boat. The transfer was sudden, yet I shall always feel
grateful for the kind act. Very cautiously the men rowed, passing between
the rocks which were seen more plainly as we drew nearer and nearer the
shore. No wonder all passengers dread the Jaffa landing, and no wonder
many lives have been lost in landing when storms were raging.
Strong men are always glad when the ordeal of landing at Jaffa is over
with. Is it any wonder then that timid women rejoice over the fact that
there is only one Jaffa landing?
You can imagine we were rejoiced to be on solid ground again, and when
the guide took us to the hotel we retired to our room; and there on
bended knees we thanked our kind heavenly Father for his protecting care
over us. Our hearts were full of thankfulness, and tears of gratitude
filled our eyes. Though far, far from home, it was a pleasing thought to
feel that the Lord was with us all the way.
[Illustration]
CHAPTER VII.
_Jaffa.—The Careless Camel.—Bible Characters who lived in
Jaffa.—Jonah’s Temptation.—On the Way to the Holy City.—An Arab and his
Plow.—Ramleh.—Lydda in the Distance.—Leprous People Begging.—Leprous
People of Bible Times.—Camp-fire in the Cave.—Jerusalem.—Our
Room.—Solomon’s Disobedience.—Tower of David.—The Stubborn
Donkey.—Mohammedan Cemetery.—Mount of Olives._
Jaffa is built upon a hillside facing the sea, and the first glimpse
of the flat-roofed stone houses, standing out as they did in the clear
sunlight, is apt to cause one to pronounce the city beautiful; but wait
until a walk through the narrow, dirty streets is taken, and such a
thought as beautiful vanishes from the mind. A light shower of rain had
fallen just before we arrived there; the filthy condition of the city was
quite disagreeable, and it took away the desire to tarry long there.