Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
Highway robbers came into our mind, but there was not time to harbor such
thoughts long, for on getting a little closer to them we found two of
our traveling companions who had gone into a cave for shelter from the
rain. For amusement and warmth they had, Arab like, built a fire. The men
were full of fun, and their antics were quite grotesque. You can scarcely
imagine how funny they did look, dancing before the blazing fire. Of
course all laughed, for we could not help ourselves. Their shelter from
the rain was a good one, and there was no danger of its leaking either.
All were settled in the carriage at last, so we drove on.
As we neared the top of the mountain another camp-fire was seen, but this
time it was that of a Greek caravan which had stopped for the night.
There were ever so many men, camels and donkeys, and the bright fire
looked quite cheerful, for we were pretty well chilled; but we did not
stop, for if Jerusalem was to be reached that night it was necessary for
us to keep moving.
The roads continued bad, very bad. Many places there were great, deep
gullies washed out; the wagon wheels dropped into them with a thud, and
at times it seemed as though the wagon would surely go over. Some of the
party concluded to try walking, that they might keep warm—a good thing
for them to do. I’m very sure the footmen had a more pleasant time than
we who were riding. At times we were almost thrown from our seats by
the jolting, and I clung to the back of the seat in front of me. I did
not hesitate to pronounce it the worst ride which I had ever taken. Oh,
how we did wish for starlight or, better still, moonlight; but neither
stars nor moon could be seen. The guide and drivers felt the need of
refreshments very often, and when another coffeehouse was reached they
stopped while we all waited, sitting in the wagon, trying to be patient.
After all, the men did us a favor by stopping, for just as we were ready
to start a break in the clouds was seen, and to our delight the beautiful
moon came forth and lighted our way. It was just what we had been wishing
for, and from there on the gullies could be seen plainly, and groping in
darkness was at an end.
Somewhere on that road our Savior joined two disciples who were on their
way to Emmaus, “which was from Jerusalem about three score furlongs.”
Jerusalem is surrounded by mountains; so the last few miles of our ride
was up hill. The pleasure of seeing the city by moonlight was granted us,
and it seemed to me the moon never did shine more brightly than on that
night.