Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Letters to the young from the Old World : $b Notes of travel
John Stuart Mill · en
The guide said, “We are now not far from Jerusalem”; and on looking in
the direction in which he pointed the dim outlines of the high walls were
seen. “Is it really the walls of Jerusalem?” we asked, and no answer was
needed, for shortly after the carriage stopped and all stood at the Jaffa
Gate, one of the entrances to the city. The guide took us to the hotel;
and a tired company of tourists we were. The ride over the mountain had
chilled us to the bone, but there was no fire to greet us. The meal which
had been prepared was likewise cold, and when a cup of tea was passed
us it too was disappointingly cold and seemed to have been far from fire
an hour or more. What a reception! Will you be surprised to know that
thoughts of home and loved ones came thick and fast?
It was midnight, and when the servant took us to our room, imagine our
feelings on beholding the flooring to be of stone and iron bars across
the one small window. A shudder passed over us, and we thought of a
prison cell. Two beds were in the room. Upon examination we found there
were two linen sheets to sleep between and a very poor, thin comfort for
covering. The outlook for getting warm was not very bright, and I still
have recollections of shivering until almost morning.
The window I made mention of seemed entirely out of place so close to
the ceiling, and it was always a wonder to me why the builders placed it
so high. And then, why the iron bars? When alone in my room one day the
thought struck me this way, “I’ll see why the window is so high.” And
forthwith the wash-stand was moved under it, and in a short time after
I stood upon it. Even then I came near being too low; but by standing
on my tiptoes and then stretching my neck until it seemed the leaders
were strained I succeeded in looking out. I did not see people passing,
but instead found the window looked down upon a great pool. It was well
filled with water which had run into it during the rainy season. The
pool, it is thought, had been built by Hezekiah who was king of Jerusalem
many, many years ago. Since the pool was all that could be seen from
the window and I was not anxious to remain longer in such a strained
position, I decided to go where a better view could be had of it. My
curiosity had been gratified, and I never looked out of that window
again. Soon after this the guide came, and we all started out to see the
city.
[Illustration: _One of Solomon’s Pools._]
Solomon’s pools are only a few hours’ ride from Jerusalem and may be
seen on your way to the city of Bethlehem. They are three in number, and
all of them are of great size. We learn there is one which is considered
finer than the rest, and its dimensions are one hundred and ninety-four
yards long, forty-nine yards wide at the top, and sixty-nine yards below,
and is at places forty-eight feet deep, and hewn in the rock.