On reaching camp in the evening the dragoman informed us that we had ridden twenty-four miles during that day. You may well imagine we were surprised to hear it, and you may know we were exceedingly tired and anxious for rest. Two nights were spent at the same camping place, but the dragoman said we should take a long ride the next day; consequently all must arise early in the morning. Sweet sleep did not come to me that night and there was no chance to nap in the morning, for the tin can pounding and bell ringing aroused us at four o’clock. Oh, what a noise! Wedding serenaders in the country are the only ones who are able to make music to compare with it. Quickly we arose and hastily dressed, then made our way to the dining tent; and while we partook of the morning meal our tents were taken down and packed upon the back of mules and donkeys. There they stood, loaded with camp fixtures, and before the camp ground was vacated cook stove, bed and bedding and large boxes of dishes, and victuals were all packed for the journey. The order to mount our horses was given, and as soon as possible we were upon their backs. Camp had been at the foot of the mountain, so up, up, up we went, right from the start. The roads were in a terrible condition, and sometimes it seemed almost impossible to cross the deep gullies which the water had washed in them. Three servants accompanied us now instead of one, as heretofore,—Yosef, Mustaff, and an Abyssinian who was extremely black. These three kept very close to us while riding along, so that assistance might be rendered when desired. I have a distinct recollection of seeing some very large holes in the road, which the servants were compelled to fill with stones while we were waiting, so that we might pass over. I also call to mind times when one of the men led the ladies’ horses while the second one held them on, and very carefully did the trusty animals step until over those dangerous places. The gentlemen of the party received help too; but one servant was all that was needed, for there was no chance for them to slip off of the back of their horses. We were in the saddle long before sunrise, and after riding an hour or more the top of the first hill was reached and a short stop made. In looking back we saw the sun coming from behind Mount Nebo; and oh what a beautiful picture of the Dead Sea and the winding Jordan! Time was too precious to be spent in looking long at one picture, so we rode on, and that day proved to be the most trying day’s ride of the whole twenty-one. [Illustration] CHAPTER IX. _Strange Kind of Fuel.—The Village Oven.—Women’s Work.—Fresh Bread.—The Little Baby.—Landmarks.—Bethel.—My Faithful Friend.—A Trying Time in the Saddle.—Sinjal._