There was, I assure you, an immense interest in taking part, if I may
so express myself, in the events of which I had but the vague ideas
derived from the echoes of history, often deceptive, and in visiting
countries that are now totally transformed. The vast and brilliant
capital of modern civilisation became old to me, and had shrunk to
the size of an ordinary town, but was at the same time fortified with
crenellated towers. I admired in turns the beautiful city of the
fifteenth century, its curious types of architecture, the celebrated
tower of Nesle, and the extensive convents of Saint Germain-des-Prés.
Where the tower of St. Jacques now stands, I recognised the gloomy
court of the alchemist Nicolas Flamel. The round and pointed roofs had
the singular effect of looking like mushrooms on the banks of a river.
Then this feudal aspect disappeared, and gave place to a solitary
castle in the Seine valley surrounded by cottages; and finally there
was nothing but a fertile plain, where one could only distinguish a
few huts of savages. At the same time I remarked that the seat of
civilisation was changed, and was now in the south. I will confess to
you, my friend, that I never felt greater delight than at the moment
when I was permitted to see Rome of the Cæsars in all its splendour.
It was the day of a triumph, and no doubt under the rule of the Syrian
princes; for in the midst of magnificent surroundings, gorgeous
chariots, the purple oriflammes of the Senate, and of elegant women
and of performers of theatres, I distinguished the Emperor luxuriously
reclining in a golden car, clothed in delicately-coloured silk,
covered with precious stones and ornaments in gold and silver, which
glittered in the golden sunshine. This must have been Heliogabalus,
the priest of the sun. The Coliseum, the temple of Antoninus, the
triumphal arches, and Trajan's column were standing. Rome was in all
its ancient beauty and grandeur, that last beautiful phase which was
no more than a scene in a theatre to those crowned buffoons. A little
later I was present at the eruption of Vesuvius, which overwhelmed
Herculaneum and Pompeii. I saw Rome in flames, just for a moment; and
although I was not able to distinguish Nero on his terrace, I have no
doubt I beheld the conflagration in the year 64, and the signal for the
persecution of the Christians. A few hours after, my attention being
still occupied in examining the extensive gardens by the Tiber, I had
just seen the Emperor near a parterre of roses, when, in consequence of
the revolution of the Earth on its axis, Judea was presented to me. How
anxiously I regarded it when I distinguished Jerusalem and the mountain
of Golgotha. Jesus was climbing this mountain, accompanied by a few
women, escorted by a troop of soldiers, and followed by the Jewish
populace. I shall never forget this spectacle. It assumed a totally
different aspect to me from what it did to those who were living at