Peeps at Many Lands: Turkey — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Peeps at Many Lands: Turkey
John Stuart Mill · en
Nothing can rival the physical appearance, dogged perseverance, and
power of endurance of the soldiers streaming before you, and the
prancing steeds ridden by the officers excite your admiration.
But another sound, less musical, may disturb your ear, and a horde of
half-naked savages appear, carrying on poles what you would call a
garden-pump, but which is really a fire-engine. A man carrying the
hose-nozzle precedes, and as they tear along, shouting "_Sagh ol!_"
("Clear out"; literally, "Keep yourself uninjured!"), you imagine a band
of maniacs has been let loose.
There is now a regular fire-brigade in Constantinople, available where
the streets are wide enough to permit its use, but you will not wonder
that under the old system conflagrations sometimes destroyed thousands
of houses at a time, and still do so in quarters where the streets are
too narrow and the houses of wood.
Ambulating vendors of all sorts are also to be found on the bridge,
advertising their goods in loud falsetto notes, or sometimes singing
metrical eulogies over them. _Hamals_, and porters, too, of every
description, are there, conveying their burdens, and Turkish sailors,
whose duty it is to police the bridge, while at either end are men clad
in long white shirts, without pockets, to collect the toll, and not
pocket it. And as if to connect the new with the old order of
administration, a motorbus, with the words "Progres" emblazoned upon it,
traverses the bridge with passengers, while British-built steamers moor
on pontoons attached to the bridge, and convey travellers to the
villages of the Bosphorus and other suburbs.
Crossing the bridge, you arrive at Stamboul, the Turkish quarter, and
enter into a long street, arched over, and with numerous windows. It is
called the _Missir Tcharchi_, or Egyptian Spice Bazaar, owing to the
drugs and spices sold in it. It is dark and badly ventilated; its
odours overpower you, but you see there a display of drugs and perfumes
never dreamt of before, and gathered from all parts of the empire. Each
shop within the bazaar is known by its special sign--a ship, a broom, a
bird's-cage, the model of a mosque, a flag, bows and arrows, and so
on--while its occupant sits, like a spider in his den, inviting you into
his parlour.