Peeps at Many Lands: Turkey — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Peeps at Many Lands: Turkey
John Stuart Mill · en
During the time of the Russo-Turkish War in 1879, I remember witnessing
the wholesale flight of thousands of them to Constantinople. Many
arrived in ox-drawn waggons laden with their families, their goods and
chattels, and driving before them their cattle, which they disposed of
for a mere song in the market. Others were conveyed in railway-trucks,
packed close like sheep in a pen, and seemed as bewildered. A peculiar
sight was a truck-load of children packed among sacks and bedding, from
which they emerged on the arrival of the train, like ants issuing from
an ant-hill. The city swarmed with these immigrants, the courts of the
mosques were converted into refuge houses, and the utmost misery
prevailed until Government had quartered them in different villages in
Asiatic Turkey. There they still may be found, and their location
recognized by their wretched wooden shanties and their squalor. But in
many cases change of environment has not occasioned change of
disposition, and I am assured that during the time of the Armenian
massacres (1896) Pomaks quartered in Brusa sharpened their knives and
armed themselves to a man to kill and plunder the Christians, and they
were only prevented from carrying out this nefarious deed by the armed
interposition of the humane Turkish Governor.
In dress Pomaks differ but little from the ordinary Turk; in habits they
are perhaps more industrious, and it may be put down to their credit
that they introduced into Constantinople and elsewhere a new and light
form of carriage which is now extensively used for picnics and
excursions into the country.
In addition to the half-caste Tartars of Macedonia there are the pure
Tartars who for several centuries past have inhabited the highlands of
Asia Minor, and who are credited with great trustworthiness. This
quality, in addition to their capacity for long and rapid riding, has
obtained for them the practical monopoly of the postal service in the
interior of Turkey, and the word _tartar_ has come to be synonymous with
postillion, or mounted postman. There are relays of horses at stated
intervals, but the same rider travels over the whole distance. His
saddle is capacious, with broad stirrups in the form of an open shoe.
The saddle has, moreover, a hump on which the rider can support his
arms, and an arrangement for fixing a short rod, with a crescent-shaped
top or cushion, on which the rider rests his chin and sleeps during
night travelling. Letters and parcels are placed in saddle-bags, which
are thrown astride the saddle in the same way as paniers are with us.
They are made of leather, of carpet, or camel's-hair, and the opening is
closed through a series of loops running into each other. There is
usually great excitement at the arrival of the Tartar, and the letters,
where no post office exists, are strewn on the floor of a room of the
_conak_, or Governor's house, and applicants asked to pick out any
addressed to them.