Peru: a land of contrast — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Peru: a land of contrast
John Stuart Mill · en
Processions of priests barefoot, with crowns of thorns on their heads,
cords about their necks, and heavy chains on their ankles, taught the
people that the destruction was of God, the roaring of the subterranean
powers a warning against luxury. The prior of one society went about
covered with ashes; a heavy bridle cut his mouth, iron nails fastened
his eyelids, his back was bare. “This is the punishment that God in
heaven executes,” said a lay brother, walking behind him, as he let
fall an iron lash so heavily that the blood spurted.
The bones of Santo Toribio and Santa Rosa were carried about; the
viceroy and great persons followed in mourning, with ropes about their
necks. Distinguished ladies, barefoot, their hair shaved, walked in
coarse clothes. The dense stillness was broken by a monk’s voice: “Holy
God, Holy God, be merciful to us.”
CHAPTER VIII
LIMA OF TWO ASPECTS
The valley of the Rimac, where glisten the towers of Lima, is only one
of the river-ways which cross the desert. The river of the ancient
oracle Rimac, “he who speaks,” has given its name in perverted form to
Lima--the Spanish city. The temple of the speaker was in ruins long
before Spanish days.
Like other streams of the west coast, the great river Rimac has run
through the gamut of all zones. Hurrying down from the cordillera,
it spreads fertility far and wide over the dry shore-valley. As far
away as Chorillos, “little water jets,” the water of the Rimac filters
through, led astray for irrigation. But its own journey to the sea is
vain. The mountain water is so precious to the desert that by the time
the stream has reached the shore, it has not force enough left to make
an outlet across the beach into the ocean.
Irrigating ditches and crumbling mud walls divide gardens and
vineyards and orchards of wind-blown olive trees. Ruins of mud
accumulate dust. Luxuriant nasturtiums drape every dusty bank. Vestiges
of fortresses, temples, and grave-mounds of the three ancient cities
of the Rimac valley still terrify owners of the sugar-fields, for
the inhabitants of the sepulchers sometimes return at night to sit
beneath the grape-arbors and listen to the murmur of irrigation streams
which they made. Cajamarquilla, Armatambo, and Huadca were the names
of these cities, and the whirlwind was their most distinguished god.
His white-robed priests ate neither salt nor pepper, and tore out the
hearts of men and of animals to offer them to the gods on the platforms
of temples.
Sometimes, too, the Huguenot hermit who lived near the site of Huadca
and who was burned by the Inquisition returns to his little caves at
nightfall.