Peru: a land of contrast — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Peru: a land of contrast
John Stuart Mill · en
The tellers of Peru’s story deserve a history themselves. First came
the falcon-eyed missionaries of Spain, sword and rosary clattering
beneath priestly robes, to subject the Indians to salvation, or
mercifully to condemn them to death by torture. Had they been less
conscientious in describing all those quaint beliefs and idolatrous
practices which they came to stamp out, we should perhaps have missed
the chief source of information in regard to the Children of the Sun
and their dependent peoples. Military writers and official chroniclers
followed in close order. It took them some time to recover from their
amazement at this land of “gold, silver and pleasant monkeys.” They
wrote with convincing emphasis, “Wee that live now at Peru ... finde
not ourselves to bee hanging in the aire, our heades downward and our
feete on high.” On the contrary, they discovered that they were even
“as near unto heaven at Peru as in Spain.”
Explorers and adventurers of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries
were in the forefront of writers of romance. Such authors have always
found inspiration here. From Marmontel to the _Peruvian Tales_ of
Guenelette, from Frank Stockton to José-Maria de Heredia, chiseler of
faultless cameos, who himself came from a dramatic land of Spanish
conquest, Peru has been a word to conjure with. But invention has added
no glamour to history. It cannot keep pace with fact.
Accounts by various travelers of past centuries, voyages of discovery
and reports of treasure fleets are followed by the students of to-day.
Scientists write of Peru, each authority finding his specialty
accented. The geologist sees cosmic forces in active operation still.
The anthropologist studies untouched savages in the morasses of the
Amazon, the naturalist’s wonderland. Archeology now has an exciting
preëminence. Cool authorities admit the amazing antiquity of Peruvian
ruins. The historian finds a great barbaric civilization; the economist
ancient systems of state policy; the prospector an extensive system
of navigable waterways. The mining engineer discovers inexhaustible
mines, and the agriculturist unique opportunity, where the uplands of
a farm lie among snows, its lowlands under rubber groves and orange
trees. All write of Peru, and an increasing bibliography affords easy
access to every sort of statistics. I have referred to a wide range of
authorities, many of them cited in an appendix, to supplement my own
observations, made as member of an astronomical expedition, during a
stay of several months in Peru.
* * * * *
A painstaking person while in Peru wrote a journal containing all he
saw. Not an event or an observation escaped chronicle. But on reaching
home he discovered that his really poignant memories were not in his
journal. His entries, though conscientious, “were but the ingredients.
They were not the secret of the philtre.”