Perhaps the most satisfactory method of preventing freezing of concrete is to heat the materials and to inclose or cover the completed work for a few days or until most of the water has disappeared and sufficient strength has developed. In extreme weather protection may be needed for five or six days. When the weather is cold but not freezing, heating the materials will be sufficient. If a freeze is expected the concrete work should be protected by wood inclosures, paper, or canvas, over which, if the surface is horizontal, may be spread a 6 or 8 inch layer of straw. Manure should not be used to protect fresh concrete, since the acids in it are destructive and cause unsightly stains. Splits or other openings in coverings may admit cold, which may freeze parts of the work. As the temperature drops (to about 20° F.) it will be necessary to arrange the covering so that live steam can be turned in between it and the concrete or that heat may be supplied from stoves or salamanders. Mass work, except in very cold weather, will not require as careful protection as thin sections and, as a rule, the forms are sufficient if the exposed parts are covered. HEATING MATERIALS. The water can be heated sufficiently for use in concrete (approximately 150° F.) in kettles on stoves or by steam from a boiler. A metal smokestack placed horizontally with a fire in one end makes an efficient heater for the sand and gravel. The materials are piled over the stack, but not so high that their weight will crush the pipe. Small quantities of sand and gravel may be heated on top of metal plate with a fire under it. If a small boiler is available it may be economical to use steam for heating the sand and gravel. Steam is effective when forced from nozzles into the piles or circulated through perforated pipes placed under the material. Covering the piles with canvas or other material will retain much of the heat. CONTRACTION AND EXPANSION JOINTS.