Roman Mosaics; Or, Studies in Rome and Its Neighbourhood — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Roman Mosaics; Or, Studies in Rome and Its Neighbourhood
John Stuart Mill · en
Adjoining the church is the convent of the Sacred Heart, which
formerly belonged to French monks, minims of the order of St. Francis.
It suffered severely from the wantonness of the French soldiers who
were quartered in it during the French occupation of Rome in the first
Revolution. Since 1827 the Convent has been in possession of French
nuns, who are all ladies of rank. They each endow the Convent at their
initiation with a dowry of L1000; the rest of their property going to
their nearest relatives as if they were dead. They spend their time in
devotional exercises, in superintending the education of a number of
young girls in the higher branches, and in giving advice to those who
are allowed to visit them for this purpose every afternoon. The
Trinita dei Monti is the only church in Rome where female voices are
to be heard chanting the religious services; and on account of this
peculiarity, and the fresh sweet voices of the nuns and their pupils,
many people flock to hear them singing the Ave Maria at sunset, on
Sundays and on great festivals, the singers themselves being
invisible behind a curtain in the organ gallery. Mendelssohn found
their vespers charming, though his critical ear detected many
blemishes in the playing and singing. I visited the church one day. As
it is shut after matins, I was admitted at a side door by one of the
nuns, who previously inspected me through the wicket, and was left
alone, the door being locked behind me. The interior is severely
simple and grand, preserving the original pointed architecture
inclining to Gothic, and is exquisitely clean and white, as women
alone could keep it; in this respect forming a remarkable contrast to
the grand but dirty church of the Capuchin monks. I had ample leisure
to study the very interesting pictures in the chapels. The solitude
was only disturbed by a kneeling figure in black, motionless as a
statue behind the iron railing in front of the high altar, or by the
occasional presence of a nun, who moved across the transept with slow
and measured steps, her face hid by a long white veil which gave her a
spirit-like appearance. In the heart of one of the busiest parts of
the city, no mountain cloister could be more quiet and lonely. One
felt the soothing stillness, lifted above the world, while yet
retaining the closest connection with it. It is sweet to leave the
busy crowd of various nationalities below, intent only upon pleasure,
and, climbing up the lofty staircase, enter this secluded shrine, and
be alone with God.