Scenes and legends of the north of Scotland : $b or, The traditional history of Cromarty
John Stuart Mill · en
The headland which skirts the northern entrance of the Firth is of
a bolder character than even the southern one--abrupt, stern, and
precipitous as that is. It presents a loftier and more unbroken wall
of rock; and where it bounds on the Moray Firth there is a savage
magnificence in its cliffs and caves, and in the wild solitude of its
beach, which we find nowhere equalled on the shores of the other. It is
more exposed, too, in the time of tempest. The waves often rise, during
the storms of winter, more than a hundred feet against its precipices,
festooning them, even at that height, with wreaths of kelp and tangle;
and for miles within the bay, we may hear, at such seasons, the savage
uproar that maddens amid its cliffs and caverns coming booming over
the lashings of the nearer waves like the roar of artillery. There is
a sublimity of desolation on its shores, the effects of a conflict
maintained for ages, and on a scale so gigantic. The isolated,
spire-like crags that rise along its base, are so drilled and bored
by the incessant lashings of the surf, and are ground down to shapes
so fantastic, that they seem but the wasted skeletons of their former
selves; and we find almost every natural fissure in the solid rock
hollowed into an immense cavern, whose very ceiling, though the head
turns as we look up to it, owes evidently its comparative smoothness to
the action of the waves.
One of the most remarkable of these recesses occupies what we may term
the apex of a lofty promontory. The entrance, unlike that of most of
the others, is narrow and rugged, though of great height, but it widens
within into a shadowy chamber, perplexed, like the nave of a cathedral,
by uncertain cross lights, that come glimmering into it through two
lesser openings which perforate the opposite sides of the promontory.
It is a strange ghostly-looking place; there is a sort of moonlight
greenness in the twilight which forms its noon, and the denser shadows
which rest along its sides; a blackness so profound that it mocks the
eye, hangs over a lofty passage which leads from it, like a corridor,
still deeper into the bowels of the hill; the light falls on a
sprinkling of half-buried bones, the remains of animals that, in the
depth of winter, have creeped into it for shelter and to die; and when
the winds are up, and the hoarse roar of the waves comes reverberated
from its inner recesses, it needs no over-active fancy to people its
avenues with the shapes of beings long since departed from every gayer
or softer scene, but which still rise uncalled to the imagination in
those by-corners of nature which seem dedicated, like this cavern, to
the wild, the desolate, and the solitary.