Scenes and legends of the north of Scotland : $b or, The traditional history of Cromarty
John Stuart Mill · en
A few hundred yards from where the headland terminates towards the
south, there is a little rocky bay, which has been known for ages
to the seafaring men of the town as the _Cova-Green_. It is such a
place as we are sometimes made acquainted with in the narratives of
disastrous shipwrecks. First, there is a broad semicircular strip of
beach, with a wilderness of insulated piles of rock in front; and so
steep and continuous is the wall of precipices which rises behind,
that, though we may see directly overhead the grassy slopes of the
hill, with here and there a few straggling firs, no human foot ever
gained the nearer edge. The bay of Cova-Green is a prison to which the
sea presents the only outlet; and the numerous caves which open along
its sides, like the arches of an amphitheatre, seem but its darker
cells. It is in truth a wild impressive place, full of beauty and
terror, and with none of the squalidness of the mere dungeon about it.
There is a puny littleness in our brick and lime receptacles of misery
and languor, which speaks as audibly of the feebleness of man as of his
crimes or his inhumanity; but here all is great and magnificent--and
there is much, too, that is pleasing. Many of the higher cliffs which
rise beyond the influence of the spray, are tapestried with ivy; we
may see the heron watching on the ledges beside her bundle of withered
twigs, or the blue hawk darting from her cell; there is life on every
side of us--life in even the wild tumbling of the waves, and in the
stream of pure water which, rushing from the higher edge of the
precipice in a long white cord, gradually untwists itself by the way,
and spatters ceaselessly among the stones over the entrance of one of
the caves. Nor does the scene want its old story to strengthen its hold
on the imagination.
Some time early in the reign of Queen Anne, a fishing yawl, after
vainly labouring for hours to enter the Bay of Cromarty during a
strong gale from the west, was forced at nightfall to relinquish
the attempt, and take shelter in the Cova-Green. The crew consisted
of but two persons--an old fisherman and his son. Both had been
thoroughly drenched by the spray, and chilled by the piercing wind,
which, accompanied by thick snow-showers, had blown all day through
the opening from off the snowy top of Ben-Wevis; and it was with no
ordinary satisfaction that, as they opened the bay on their last tack,
they saw the red gleam of a fire flickering from one of the caves, and
a boat drawn up on the beach.
“It must be some of the Tarbat fishermen,” said the old man, “wind
bound like ourselves; but wiser than us, in having made provision for
it. I’ll feel willing enough to share their fare with them for the
night.”