The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea
John Stuart Mill · en
The quaintest and strangest of costumes met our eyes as we leaned out of
the window of our compartment when the train stopped at the station of
St. Georgen, eager to see how the brook had widened there. The hurrying
peasant women, in queer skull-caps with immense ribbon bows, stiff
bodices, and short petticoats, seemed to be the supernumeraries in the
prologue of an exciting, drama now about to begin. The train rolled
slowly on with that peculiar settling-down motion that denotes a
descending grade, and we watched the yard-wide brook gradually expand
its channel and assume the proportions of a goodly stream. In the
fertile valley near Villingen, where the country opens out
[Illustration: DONAUESCHINGEN GIRLS]
and the landscape becomes more extensive, the stream was now fully a
half-dozen yards wide, and the recent heavy rains had filled it nearly
to overflowing with a yellow flood. We had a sudden and strong
temptation to stop and begin our cruise at this point, but the
uncertainty of the fate of our canoes, of which we had received no item
of information since they had been shipped at New York, made it
imperative for us to push on to Donaueschingen, and our ambition to make
the highest start on record in the Danube annals was forever crushed by
the considerations of transportation. Donaueschingen was still dripping
from a heavy shower when we arrived about noon-time, but the eloquently
beaming face of our companion would have dispelled the gloom of the
heaviest thunder-storm, and we heeded not the weather, for we understood
at once that the canoes had arrived and were all right. Indeed, contrary
to all precedent and all prophecy, they had turned up safe and sound the
day before; and when we saw them for the first time, all sleek and shiny
and dainty, resting on the flag-stones of the inn-yard as lightly as
bubbles on a pool of water, we felt that kind and quality of elation
that had been a stranger to us since the first happy day of school
vacation. Graceful as violins, with sails whiter than the fresh
whitewash of the tidy hostlery, with shining nickel fittings and every
detail highly finished, they combined in their construction beauty and
strength in a near approach to perfection.