Sometimes famous dancers from different towns, in fantastic and absurd
decorations and dress, will contend for the championship in a contest of
several days. They dance in the middle of the street before an audience
of almost the entire population of the different towns seated on the
ground on either side of the street. The music is not adapted to the
dance, but the dance to the changing music. The musicians have hard work,
and they make it harder. Streaming with perspiration they beat the drums
with changing time and increasing rapidity until they are almost as
nearly exhausted as the dancers, and one might think that the music had
gone mad. Without doubt the native dance is a fine bodily exercise; and
they dance so much that the exercise is perhaps the chief factor in the
development of the strength and athletic form of the native.
The women dance on the moonlight nights, and often through the entire
night. They all sing as they dance, most of them standing in a circle
while individuals one after another step into the middle of the circle
and lead the performance. The men are standing around looking on and when
a leader finishes her part one or several of her gentlemen friends will
step into the circle and embrace her. These dances have always appeared
innocent enough to me. But the native Christians, who know better than I,
and who also know the side-scenes that invariably attend the dance though
not a part of it, uniformly condemn the dance, and say that no Christian
ought to take part in it.
They dance on all festive occasions—a betrothal, a marriage, a victory
in war, the end of a war, or the end of a term of mourning for the dead.
The men decorate themselves with paint and feathers, and often they wear
around their ankles strings of native bells, consisting of the dried hull
of a certain nut, into which while still green they insert small stones,
which make a peculiarly metallic and pleasant noise.
They usually form in two long lines in the street, with the drums
across one end. Some great dancer will perform in the middle, down
the lines and back, sometimes in graceful movements, and sometimes in
contortions almost fiendish until his body seems to have no shape at all
“distinguishable in member, joint or limb.” Sometimes they all move
with him down the street and back. They sing and shout as they dance,
shaking the bells on their ankles, and occasionally all together suddenly
stamping upon the ground. They mark the time to perfection, and the
effect of so many men keeping the time perfectly while their movements
differ, together with the volume of wild song and shouting is quite
fascinating.