The jungle folk of Africa — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
The jungle folk of Africa
John Stuart Mill · en
On my first voyage to Africa (having been appointed to the West Africa
Mission, by the Board of Foreign Missions of the Presbyterian Church)
I was four weeks on the way, from Liverpool, and landed at Batanga, in
Cameroon, two hundred miles north of the equator. On the second voyage
I was five weeks on the way, and landed at Libreville (better known
as _Gaboon_) in the Congo Français, almost exactly at the equator.
Libreville was the capital of the French Congo. _Gaboon_ is properly the
name of the bay or great estuary upon which Libreville is situated, and
is one of the very few good harbours on the west coast. But long before
the existence of Libreville, captains and traders had used the name
_Gaboon_ to designate the adjacent settlement of native villages and
trading-houses, and it is still the name in general use.
We made many calls along the way. Some of the places are very beautiful,
such as the Canary Islands, Sierra Leone, Cape Coast Castle, Victoria,
Fernando Po and Gaboon; and some are quite otherwise, for Africa is a
land of extremes. Bonny is repulsive, and the Rio del Rey is a nightmare.
Meanwhile, we are getting further and further away from all that is known
and natural to our eyes, and nearer to a land of strange birds and beasts
and trees, inhabited by tribes that to the white man are only a name, or
have no name, and to whom he is perhaps an imaginary being, or the ghost
of their dead ancestors.
At the Canary Islands, a week after leaving Liverpool, one may spend a
day of interest and pleasure. On my first voyage we called at Las Palmas,
in Grand Canary Island. On the second voyage we called at Santa Cruz
on Teneriffe Island. The object of chief interest is the great Mount
Teneriffe, seen sometimes a hundred miles at sea; probably the Mount
Atlas of ancient fable, which was supposed to support the firmament.
There are of course many mountain peaks in the world which rise to a
greater height above the sea-level; but they are usually in ranges or on
high table-lands far from the sea, and while the altitude is great, the
individual peak may not be great. Teneriffe rises directly out of the
sea, slowly at first but with increasing inclination, until at last it
sweeps upward to the clouds and far above them, to a height of 12,500
feet. The sandy slopes upon the higher altitudes reflect the light with
unequalled splendour. From the harbour of Las Palmas we saw the sun
rising on Teneriffe. We stood on the deck before the dawn, and while
darkness was all around us, saw the heights already struggling with the
darkness, and the summit bathed in the light of the unrisen day. A heavy
mist rolled down and spread over the valleys, like a sea resplendent
with every interchange of deepening and dissolving colour; while from
below arose the increasing noise and tumult of a half-civilized city
awaking from slumber. In a little while the clouds begin to assemble,
and the peak is hidden throughout the day: so it is always. But in the