The ladies' hand-book of millinery and dressmaking : $b With plain instructions for making the most useful articles of dress and attire — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
The ladies' hand-book of millinery and dressmaking : $b With plain instructions for making the most useful articles of dress and attire
John Stuart Mill · en
The various parts being thus ready, proceed to make up the cloak. First
the breadths are to be seamed together, so as to show the stitches as
little as may be. One breadth is to be thrown to the back, and at one
nail and a half from the seam cut the arm-holes three and a quarter
nails long, and two and a quarter below the shoulder pieces, which are
to be next made by running the material and the lining together, with
the wadding between them, on the wrong side, and then turning them.
You next double the three back breadths, and hollow them so as to fit
the shoulder pieces; into which the whole is afterward to be set in
as full and even as possible, the two front breadths reaching to the
shoulder, and all the rest being set on to the back. At the distance
of four nails from the shoulder pieces, plait in the back so as to fit
the waist; and a band, of a sufficient length to encircle the person,
is laid upon the folds behind, and drawn to the inside through two
apertures cut on each side, and worked as button-holes; this band is
fastened by buttons or hooks in front. Sometimes a riband-case is made
on the inside, and strings run through it, which answers the same
end. You next make the collar in the same manner as you prepared the
shoulder-pieces, and set it on to the neck. These cloaks are trimmed
in various ways. The arm-holes, when not in use, are concealed by
pieces of the silk, three and a quarter nails in length, and half a
nail in breadth, which are lined and set on to one side. They must have
a row of piping set on all round. You may trim the fronts with a hem,
one nail and three quarters deep, of velvet, cut crosswise; or, if
you prefer it, you can substitute an edging of fur: but we think that
velvet looks the most handsome and becoming. The cloak is sewed round
the neck with silk cord of the same color, and finished with tassels,
or an ornamental clasp is adopted; either is suitable, and may be used
at pleasure.
These cloaks are very elegant, when properly made. Sometimes they are
furnished with capes of the same material, which are generally loose,
and are found very convenient. They may be worn as mantelets, without
the cloak, and are made as follows:
Take a sheet of paper as large as you intend half the cape to be, and
round off the corners so as to form it into a perfect circle; double
this, and from the straight side cut a small half round for the neck:
open the pattern, and from the front of the inner half circle double
one side in a slanting direction, for the opening in front. No precise
rule can be given; but the paper must be so fitted to the person that
the fronts may meet when the cape is worn. Having got your pattern
correct, cut out the lining by it, and lastly the silk for the cape;
both, but especially the outside, must be cut crosswise. The lining and
silk are to be neatly run together and then turned, and the back seam
seamed up. The trimming of the cape must be the same as that of the
cloak.