The ladies' hand-book of millinery and dressmaking : $b With plain instructions for making the most useful articles of dress and attire — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
The ladies' hand-book of millinery and dressmaking : $b With plain instructions for making the most useful articles of dress and attire
John Stuart Mill · en
Bonnets of various shapes are made of plain and figured silk or satin,
and must in all cases be formed upon a stiff foundation. The best and
most economical way is to purchase a foundation of the shape required,
which is to be found in the different millinery establishments. Having
procured one to your mind, proceed as follows: Detach the crown from
the front, and shape the material by the pattern, tack the lining and
the outside to the front and cord, or otherwise secure the edges. Then
make the crown, covering the top first; then put on it the piece of the
material that is to go round, in a proper manner, and secure it at the
top by a single or double row of cord, fit it as tightly as possible
to the frame you had before prepared, and fasten it on at the back.
You then turn in the edges and set it on to the front. The edge of the
crown is to be outermost, or over that of the front. You put in the
head lining and attach the curtain as in the former examples, and trim
it as you choose.
Bonnets for children are, for the most part, made in the same manner,
and of the same materials.
An acquaintance with the directions here given will soon enable any one
to make a bonnet of almost any shape. The principles are the same in
all, and details can not be learned from books--they can only be the
result of observation and experience.
Mourning bonnets are made of black silk and trimmed with crape, or, if
for deep mourning, covered with crape. In trimming mourning bonnets,
the crape bow and strings are generally broad hemmed, the double hem
being from half an inch to one inch broad. For very deep mourning, the
front of the bonnet has a fall or veiling of crape, half a yard deep
and a yard and a half long, having a broad hem at the lower edge. The
upper edge, being drawn up to the size of the front, is either inserted
between the covering and the lining, or is set in along the upper edge
and covered with a fold of crape.
DIRECTIONS IN CAP-MAKING.
The next branch of millinery to which we shall direct attention is that
of cap-making. Some attempts have been made recently to discard the use
of night-caps, as detrimental to health; but it is not likely that such
old friends will be speedily abandoned at the dictum of new and untried
theories. We give the two following examples as among the best we
know; of course the variety of shapes is almost beyond calculation.