[Clothes.] The one garment never discarded by a man in public is the
rive, commonly spoken of in Naga-Assamese as “lengta.” This consists of
a long narrow piece of stout cloth ending in a broad flap. In putting
it on the narrow piece is wound once round the waist so that it joins
at the back and forms a belt. It is then brought through between the
legs from the back, and up through the belt, the broad flap being
allowed to hang down in front. The result is a garment which is both
serviceable and entirely decent. The flap is either white or dark blue,
with horizontal red stripes, broad among the Northern Lhotas and narrow
among the Southern. In the old days a dark blue rive could only be worn
by a man who had done the head-taking “genna,” but this distinction is
being rapidly dropped. A boy’s first garment, assumed without any
ceremonies when about seven or eight years old, is the flap of one of
his father’s discarded “lengtas” hung from a bit of string tied round
his waist. The skirt (sürham) worn by the women is about twenty-two
inches deep. It is bound tightly round the waist and the overlapping
top corner tucked in in front of the left hip. The edge which shows is
often ornamented with iridescent beetle wings or bits of yellow orchid
stalk. Among the Northern Lhotas the sürham is of dark blue cloth with
narrow horizontal red stripes in threes, and a band of paler blue
embroidered with red three inches broad running round the middle of the
cloth. The skirts worn by Southern women have no red stripes, and the
pale blue band is broader and nearer the top of the cloth. When about
five or six years old a little girl puts on her first skirt
(khondrosü). This is about ten inches deep, white with a dark blue
border and a little red embroidery in the middle.
When working in the fields, or in the hot weather even when lounging
about at home, a man usually wears nothing but his “lengta.” When
visiting his friends, however, or to sit about in the shade, or for a
journey he always wears a body-cloth measuring about four feet by five
feet. Usually such a cloth is simply wrapped round the body under the
right armpit and over the left shoulder. But for any occupation such as
hunting, where both arms must be left free, and whenever a cloth is
worn at any “genna,” it is tied on to the body as follows: The cloth is
flung over the back, and the two top corners are brought round, one
under the left arm and the other over the right shoulder, and tied
across the chest. The two bottom corners are then brought up outside
the cloth which is hanging over the back, and crossed and tied on the
chest, one passing over the left shoulder and the other under the right
arm.