Like the men, the women usually leave the upper part of the body bare,
though filthy waistcoats are nowadays commonly worn by both men and
women in villages near the plains. When body-cloths are worn by women
they are either flung loosely round the body so that the top outer
corner lies over the left shoulder, or bound tightly under the armpits.
Among the Northern Lhotas an unmarried girl usually wears a plain dark
blue cloth (muksü). On the night of her marriage, however, when she
goes to her husband’s house, she puts on a very pretty cloth called
loroesü, dark blue, with big squares of narrow white and red lines,
giving a sort of tartan effect. When her husband has dragged a stone
she may exchange her loroesü either for a lungpensü, which is almost
exactly similar to his, or for a charaksü, a cloth closely resembling
loroesü, but with the tartan squares outlined with much broader red
lines. Among the Southern Lhotas unmarried women and wives of men who
have not yet dragged a stone wear a cloth called süpang, dark blue,
with a broad light blue horizontal band near the top. When her husband
has dragged a stone a woman wears a lungpensü.
In wet weather men and women wear slung on their backs light
rain-shields (phuchyo) made of broad leaves carefully arranged between
two layers of basket work, and strengthened by an edging of thin split
bamboo.
Ornaments.
Apart from the finery in which he decks himself on ceremonial
occasions, the well-to-do Lhota usually wears certain ornaments on any
occasion when he wishes to be well dressed. In the holes in the helix
and concha of his ear are tufts of cotton wool. Usually these are quite
small, but old men in villages near the Sema border often wear big
wing-shaped pads of cotton wool like those worn by their Sema
neighbours. Some small ornament, such as a little brass wire spiral, is
worn in the lobe of the ear, or in some villages an ornament formed of
two or three porcupine quills, bound with yellow orchid stalk on to a
bit of cane boiled ebony black in pig’s fat. Like Semas and Aos, Lhotas
wear above the elbow armlets (koro) consisting of sections sawn from an
elephant’s tusk. Formerly the sole supply came from elephants killed
locally. Now Angami traders buy ivory in Calcutta and Benares and sell
armlets ready sawn. Only old men may saw up a tusk. For a young man to
do so would be very unlucky. A man who cannot afford real ivory will
sometimes wear an armlet made of white wood smoothed and rounded to
resemble the real article. Wristlets (khekap) of cowries sewn on cloth
may be worn by anyone who has done the head-taking “genna.” [62] A man
who has got first, second or third spear in at the killing of an enemy
has a little cross of cowries at the top of his wristlets. Those worn
by the Northern Lhotas are identical with the Sema type. They are
bought from the Aos and are composed of cowries filed down till they
are very narrow and sewn close together on to a cloth foundation. A red