[Weaving.] Like the Semas and Aos, the Lhotas use a simple
single-heddle tension loom (tsirochunglung) which is set up and
operated as follows. A beam (tsikam) of bamboo about three feet long is
securely fastened to the wall of the house or any other suitable firm
support in a horizontal position and at a height of about two feet from
the ground. On this are slipped two loops (tsisü) of bark string, in
which is put the other bar (ncho) of the loom. The loops are set at a
distance apart equal to the breadth of the piece of cloth to be woven.
The lower bar (ncho) is notched at either end, to enable the weaving
belt (ephi) to be attached to it. This belt is of woven cane or bamboo
and is worn by the operator in the small of her back. By it, as she
sits in front of the loom, she can keep the necessary tension on the
warp. Both the beams being in position and a strain having been taken
on the tsisü, each tsisü is crossed by the lower string being pulled up
and the upper down and a thin stick of bamboo (yingyi) is put in
position. This is naturally held firmly in place by the downward
pressure of the lower strings and the upward pressure of the upper.
Then, working towards the weaver, the lease-rod (chunglung) is put in
close to the yingyi without crossing the strings. Below the lease-rod
the sword (tsitam) is inserted, the strings being crossed as in the
case of the yingyi. The twine which is to form the heddle-loops (ena)
is now tied loosely onto the left end of the sword and laid along it.
This twine is sometimes thick cotton thread and is sometimes made from
the twisted bark of a creeper called enazü (Pineraria Thungbergiana).
Two balls of thread are then taken and their loose ends twisted
together and joined. One ball is held in the lap of the weaver while
the other is passed over the ncho, under the tsitam and the ena which
is lying along it, over the chunglung and under and then round over and
under the yingyi and then over the tsikam, from whence it is brought
straight back to the weaver under the loom. The second ball is then
passed under the ncho and over the ena and under the tsitam and
chunglung, and under and back over and under the yingyi and over the
tsikam, and is brought back to the weaver under the loom. The process
is repeated till all the warp (elomo) has been set. The result is that
the ena forms a series of heddle-loops and the yingyi (the object of
which is to shorten the upper side of the shed made by the lease-rod)
is entirely encircled by each warp. Unless the loom be a very small one
the weaver cannot reach the tsikam. She therefore generally has an
assistant, who can be a man, to pass the warp thread over and under the
tsikam. The two ends of the warp thread, when all has been set are
turned back across the warp and woven into the material. The shuttle
(yingshü), which is simply a thin piece of bamboo, is filled from the
ball by being spun against the right thigh. This process and that of