A fortnight later, in the crimson of the glorious afterglow, we swung
down the hill into the quaint old-world village of Arnay-le-Duc, in the
Cote d'Or, a quiet, lethargic place built around its great old chateau,
now, alas! in ruins since the Huguenots gained their victory there under
Coligny in 1570. Scarcely had we entered the silent village street, the
echoes of which were awakened by our siren, when we pulled up before the
long, low-built Hotel de la Poste, a building painted grey, with
_jalousies_ of the same colour, and high sloping roof of slate, like
many of those ancient hostelries one finds on the great highways of
France--the posting houses of the days of Louis Quatorze, which nowadays
bear the golden double A of the Automobile Association.
We were quite a merry trio, for since leaving England Asta had become
almost her old self. The complete change of surroundings had wrought in
her a wonderful improvement, and she looked sweet and dainty in her pale
mauve motor-bonnet and silk dust-coat. Shaw wore dark spectacles,
pleading that the whiteness of the roads pained his eyes. But I had
shrewd suspicion that they were worn for disguise, for, curiously
enough, of an evening he never removed them.
What did he fear in France?
That morning we had left Melun, where we had spent the night at the
Grand Monarque, and after driving through the delightful Foret de
Fontainebleau, had lunched at the Hotel de l'Epee in busy Auverre, and
then spun away over the straight wide _route nationale_ through
Vermenton, Avallon, and quiet old Saulieu, in the midst of the rich
vinelands, until we had accomplished the steep hills between that place
and Arnay-le-Duc.
It was our intention to get on to Macon, a hundred kilometres farther,
that night, but while we were sitting at dinner, in the unpretentious
little _salle a manger_, eating a tasty meal of trout and cutlets,
washed down by an old and perfect bottle of Beaune, Harris, the
chauffeur, who had been hired for the tour because he knew the French
roads, came and informed us of a slight breakdown of the engine, which
would take him at least a couple of hours or so to repair.
"Then we can't get on to Macon to-night, that's very certain," remarked
Shaw.
"That's a pity, Dad," exclaimed Asta, "for I wanted to spend a few hours
there. I've heard it is a wonderful place to buy antiques, and I want
some old crucifixes to add to my collection."
"Never mind, dear," he said, "we will lunch there to-morrow. We can't
expect to go through France without a single mishap. Very well,
Harris," he added, "we'll stay here to-night."
Three travellers in the wine trade, men who tucked their serviettes into
their collars, and who ate and drank heartily, were our table
companions, and soon we were all chatting merrily in French, while
Madame and her two daughters waited upon us.