The Naples Riviera — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
The Naples Riviera
John Stuart Mill · en
Beyond Torre del Greco we seem to escape to a certain extent from the
enveloping network of human dwellings, so that we are at last enabled to
gain some idea of the natural features of the country. The oriental
character of the landscape, which marks more or less distinctly the whole
of the Neapolitan coast-line, will at once be noticed in the domed farm
buildings, not unlike Mahommedan _koubbas_, washed a glistening white,
that stand out sharply against the lugubrious tints of the lava beds.
Above us, crowning a bosky hillock that juts forth from the mountain
flank, stands one of the many convents of the monks of Camaldoli, whose
houses are scattered throughout the breadth of Southern Italy. The
position of their Vesuvian settlement is certainly unique, for the rising
ground on which it is perched appears like some verdant oasis amid the
arid fields of sable lava. Secure in its commanding site, the monastery
has many a time been completely surrounded by burning streams, which have
invariably left the building and its woody demesne unscathed. More than
once have the good brethren, who wear the white robe of St Romualdo of
Ravenna, looked down from their convent walls upon the work of destruction
below, and have watched the waves of liquid fire surging angrily but
uselessly round the rocky base of their retreat. Hard manual labour,
prayer, solitude and contemplation: these are the chief duties enjoined by
the famous Tuscan order, and surely no more suitable place for carrying
out such precepts could have been chosen by the pious founder of this
Vesuvian convent. For what scenes on earth could be deemed more beautiful
to contemplate, we wonder, than the wide stretches of heaven and ocean, of
fertile plain and of rugged mountain, that are ever before the eyes of the
brethren; or more instructive than the constant spectacle of disappointed
human ambition and energy, which is afforded by the barren lava beds and
the ruined cities close at hand!