One circumstance is patent;
the dismal so-called “maccaroni pudding” one meets with in England seems
to have nothing in common with the delicately flavoured, sustaining dish
that can be obtained for a few pence in any Southern restaurant.
Torre Annunziata has the reputation of being a dirty malodorous town,
composed of shabby stone houses and full of quarrelsome people. Well,
perhaps there is a scintilla of truth in the sweeping observation, yet if
we can contrive to endure the smells and racket of the place for a brief
space of time, there is much of human interest to be observed in the daily
scenes of its crowded beach and its noisy streets. After all, no odours of
the South can compare in all-pervading intensity with the blended aroma of
fried fish and London fog that old Drury Lane can often produce; nor are
the Torrese more dangerous to strangers or more objectionable in their
habits than the crowds of Lambeth or Seven Dials. In strength of lungs, it
must be granted, the Italian easily surpasses the Londoner, for the
Southern voice is positively alarming in its vigour and its far-reaching
power. No one—man, woman or child—can apparently speak below a scream;
even the most amiable or trivial of conversations seems to our
unaccustomed ears to portend an imminent quarrel, to so high a pitch are
the naturally harsh voices strained. Morning, noon and night the same
hubbub of men shouting, of women screeching, and of children yelling
continues for nobody minds noise in Italy, where people are troubled with
no nerves of their own and consequently have no consideration for those of
strangers. And why, therefore, should they suspend their native habits to
please a handful of cavilling _forestieri_?