The Naples Riviera — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
The Naples Riviera
John Stuart Mill · en
The house once occupied by Aulus Vettius Restitutus and Aulus Vettius
Corvina stands in a quiet district not far from the Capuan Gate, and
consequently at some distance from the Forum. Like all Roman habitations
it was essentially Oriental in its outward aspect, and must have resembled
closely any one of those mysterious dwellings of wealthy Arab citizens
which we constantly encounter in the native quarters of Algiers or Tunis.
The gateway giving on the street was wide, certainly, but it was well
defended both by human and canine porters; its windows were few and small,
and were probably closely latticed like those of the nunneries which we
sometimes perceive overhead in the crowded streets of Naples. There must
have been something austere, even suspicious, in the external appearance
of the Casa de’ Vettii, but snarling dog and grim janitor have long since
disappeared, and we pass unmolested through the _atrium_ and thence into
the Great Peristyle, which is perhaps the most remarkable feature of this
house. The peristyle, as its name implies, is a Greek importation in a
Roman city, and its use would have been scorned by the old-fashioned
citizens, such as the master of the “House of the Surgeon”; yet it was in
truth admirably suited to the character of Southern Italy, where it
afforded shelter from sun and wind, and its arcades protected from the
rainfall. The peristyle of the Vettii, with its gaudily tinted pillars of
stucco, is highly ornate; perhaps it passes the limits of good taste in
certain points of colour and æsthetic decoration, yet the general effect
is undoubtedly pleasing to the eye. This courtyard is at once a lounge
open to the sky; it is a garden; it is an art-gallery; for the cheerful
court of Greek domestic architecture had nothing in common with its
successor of the Middle Ages, the monastic cloister of religious
meditation. Cannot we imagine to ourselves the goodman of the house
proudly leading his guests after a sumptuous meal in the adjacent
dining-room into the cool corridors of his peristyle, in order to point
out to them his statues and vases of bronze or porphyry, and to expatiate
upon their value or elegance of form? On such a festive occasion these
great shallow basins of pure white marble before us would be heaped high
with fragrant pyramids of red and white roses, roses that were perhaps
plucked all dewy in the famous gardens of Paestum on the other side of
Mons Gaurus. For the flowering shrubs in the tiny pleasaunce itself are
far too precious to be stripped of their blossoms in so lavish a manner,
and perhaps if Vettius be anything of an amateur gardener, he may comment
to his visitors upon the rare plants that fill his diminutive flower-beds.
Careful and reverent hands have restored the little garden as near as
possible to its pristine plan and appearance. There are still standing the
two bronze statues of urchins holding in their chubby arms ducks from