Chumbi would make a glorious summer sanitarium for British troops in the
hot weather, provided that that projected route, which is to avoid the
passes and run through Bhutan to the Bengal Duars, ever becomes an
accomplished fact. Two thousand feet higher than most hill stations, and
yet below the really giddy heights, in a climate no hotter at any time
than an English summer, never parched with drought and never visited by
protracted spells of rain, not perched on an inconvenient hilltop away
from its water supply, but lying in a fertile valley, through which runs
a river of pure water that knows not the germ of enteric, with enough
flat spaces to hold commodious barracks and to provide good recreation
grounds, it seems that it would prove an altogether desirable haven for
the invalid soldiers from Calcutta and the Presidency district.
A week spent here was pleasant enough, enabling one, so to speak, to
recover one's breath after descending from those heights we had left
behind and before tackling those in front. I soon learnt, with the same
school-boy jubilation to which I have previously alluded, that I was to
accompany the advance.
Here, of course, at this rendezvous of troops many old friends ran
across one another. It was sometimes difficult for two friends to
recognise each other on account of the obstacles to recognition formed
by their respective beards. The soldier's service beard, in its various
forms and aspects, forms an interesting study. There is, of course, the
ordinary dull beard grown by an adequately but not outrageously hirsute
person and trimmed to a conventional shape, which makes the wearer
resemble any such normal being as a naval officer, a parson, or
respectable middle-aged civilian of everyday life. The only striking
feature of this beard is that it is productive of unexpected likenesses.
You have, for instance, known a brother officer for many years, and
never found him possessed of any of the glamour of royalty; you meet him
on service wearing his beard, and find he is the veritable double of the
Prince of Wales.