Windmills and Wooden Shoes — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Windmills and Wooden Shoes
John Stuart Mill · en
Built in 1348, this church weathered even the terrible encroachment of
the sea; but along came Napoleon in 1812. Napoleon, being accustomed
to move, lock, stock and barrel, into the most sumptuous quarters of
every town he visited, took a particular liking to Veere’s church and
promptly made a barracks of it. There is no more complete method of
demolishing the interior of a building than to turn it into a barracks,
especially a Napoleonic barracks, and since the Little Corsican’s
unwelcome visit to Veere the old church has remained ravaged, mildewed,
and decayed. In a corner of the east end, however, the people of
Veere still gather for spiritual worship. Twelve years ago they started
to restore the church, but if the receipt of funds is not a little more
prompt in the future they may some day have to restore the restorations.
Several quaint old houses of the sixteenth century; an impressive tower
at the mouth of the harbor, whose mate lies buried under the sea; and
the Town Hall, containing an unimportant museum save for a few royal
documents and a richly enameled goblet, presented to the town in 1551
by Maximilian of Burgundy, the first marquis of Veere--these and the
church are the sole relics of Veere’s previous prosperity not claimed
by the ocean.
A rapid succession of long, shady, hedge-fringed avenues lead from
Veere to Domburg, the curious little bathing resort on the northwest
coast of the island. Approximately halfway, at West Hove, there stands
a famous old castle, once the residence of the Abbots of Middelburg,
which remains in such a perfect state of preservation--although
modernized, of course, to a certain degree--that in the summer it
is used as a sanatorium for the poor children of the Flushing and
Middelburg districts. Just across the road an attractive modern
building, more like a country home in design, does duty as a
full-fledged hospital.
The town of Domburg gives not the least evidence of being situated
on the seaside, as do the most of our Atlantic Coast resorts by their
bleakness, but seems rather an inland village, thickly sprinkled with
and all but completely surrounded by trees. At its back and just a few
steps behind the sand dunes, lies the sea, while a stretch of well
formed, sandy beach, which entices to Domburg each summer a goodly
number of Dutch people and the few foreigners who know of its charms,
slopes away beyond the dunes.