Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
We have only to go back half a century to the time when a tour upon
the Continent of Europe was attended by great expense, inconvenience,
and even danger. It consumed much time, and no Englishman upon whom
business did not lay a necessity to travel, could undertake any very
extensive pilgrimage in these foreign countries unless possessed of
ample means united to ample leisure. It was thus generally reserved
for young noblemen and gentlemen of wealth, as the completion of their
education, to take, with a tutor, a courier, and a sufficient retinue,
the grand tour of Europe, the limit of which was usually, though not
always, Constantinople. I suppose this circumstance has given rise to
the Continental idea, which at least formerly prevailed, that every
Englishman was a _milord Anglais_, and to its practical consequence,
from which present travellers continue to suffer—the custom, gradually
disappearing, of charging English persons upon a different scale from
that applied to natives. No doubt many of those men of former days
scattered money profusely, and to a certain extent their successors
continue to do so, and are even exceeded by some of the American
travellers who, accustomed to pay in dollars where shillings with us
often suffice, contrive by their extravagance to spoil for others the
places they frequent.
Times are now changed since the days of our grandfathers. The
treacherous sailing vessel (the smack, which would take at one time
three days, and at another, because of adverse winds, three weeks to
go from Leith to London) is supplanted by the steady, expeditious, and
almost faultlessly punctual steamboat; while the lumbering diligence
or almost equally lumbering post–chaise has been driven out of the
field by, wherever it exists, the rapid railway train. Nevertheless,
as regards Continental railway rapidity, M. Arago’s expectations that
Parisians might ‘on the same day examine the preparations of our
squadron at Toulon; may breakfast on juicy rougets at Marseilles; may
bathe at mid–day their relaxed limbs in the mineral waters of Bagnères,
and return in the evening by way of Bordeaux to attend a ball or the
Opera House,’[1] have hardly as yet, at least, been realized; for
the railway train abroad bears about the same proportion in point of
speed to the English train as the clumsy diligence did of old to our
high–flyers and our ten–mile–an–hour stage–coaches.[2] Sometimes,
indeed, people in former times, who were able to do so, travelled on
the Continent in pursuit of health; and a very interesting account
of a tour of this description, made to a large extent over the same
ground as that which forms the subject of description in the following
pages, is contained in _The Diary of an Invalid_, by Henry Matthew,
A.M., made during a journey, performed in the years 1817–18–19, through
Italy, Switzerland, and France, from which an idea of the difference
of travelling in those days—sixty years ago—from what it is now, may