Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
months’ residence in the Riviera, of so frequent occurrence.
* * * * *
During the winter season, there is, for the accommodation of visitors,
a tiny steamer, perhaps about the magnitude of Fulton’s first
steamboat, mayhap the identical one, which, for a fare of 2 francs
(return ticket), crosses to the islands of Ste. Marguerite and St.
Honorat. We resolved to spend a forenoon on Ste. Marguerite, and, with
about twenty or thirty passengers on board, crossed, leaving at eleven
o’clock and returning at four. The boat stopped at a little quay below
the high walls of Fort Monterey. Here we got out, and the whole party
landing, went up to see the fort, which is doubly famous as the place
where Bazaine was confined and from which he escaped, and where ‘the
man in the iron mask’ was so long imprisoned. Like some other French
forts, it is not at present occupied by soldiers, though a regular
fortification in masonry, and capable of affording protection against
vessels seeking to attack Cannes. A man placed as resident in the fort
accompanied us to the rooms which had been occupied by Bazaine. The
suite of apartments was extensive, and bore anything but the appearance
of a prison–house. Except for the involuntary confinement, one might
regard it as a charming residence; and in its recent occupation was
a public remonstrance against the barbarity of laws which imprison
convicted persons who have hitherto enjoyed a good social position in
the same cells as ordinary criminals, to whom such cells are in truth
more comfortable than their own miserable dirty homes. We were then
taken to the spot where it is said that Bazaine escaped by descending
the wall and rock. The height is not great, and a descent in the
daylight would be no great achievement. It would no doubt be more
difficult and perhaps dangerous in the dark, and it is even alleged
that the Marshal was allowed to walk out by the gate. There is no great
improbability in this story, seeing that the French had gained all they
wanted by a condemnation of this officer as a scapegoat for their want
of success. The room in which the ‘man in the iron mask’ was confined,
was much more like a prison—a cell with massive thick walls. We saw
the hole through which he is said to have dropped the billet which was
picked up by a fisherman.