Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
There has been placed in this fort one of those semaphores which are
studded along the coast of France, by which signals are or used to be
made, and which, before the introduction of the electric telegraph,
were no doubt useful. From the battlements we had a clear view of the
magnificent landscape before us, which embraced on the extreme right
distance the snowy peaks of the Maritime Alps. We left the fort, and
wandered over the island and through the trees, with which the greater
part of it is covered, lunched _al fresco_, and enjoyed our forenoon
very much. It is an island we could have wished transported, with all
its surroundings and its sunshine, to our own shores.
* * * * *
We spent fifteen days on this occasion at Cannes. It is a nice place
for winter residence for those who are in good health; but I doubt
whether, notwithstanding the records of the thermometer, it be
sufficiently warm—at least, whether it affords sufficient shelter—for
delicate invalids, being apparently a good deal more open to north and
west winds than some other places in the Riviera. Before we arrived,
there had been not a little rain, and the roads were very dirty. While
we remained, we had still more; but the usual weather all along the
Riviera is dry and fair, and it is of dust one has most to complain.
There is no river meriting the name debouching within the limits of the
town, although their insignificant beds are speedily filled when heavy
rain falls.
* * * * *
Like most places on the Riviera, there is abundance of marble used
in the houses and hotels. It is not altogether without its drawbacks
and its dangers. Stair steps are of marble, and it is requisite to be
careful in descending. On one occasion I slipped upon a marble step
and fell on my back, and might, had the fall been more direct, have
received permanent injury; but in the winter time carpets are usually
laid on the stairs.
* * * * *
It is said that there are snakes and venomous green lizards. We never
saw any snakes, and though there are plenty of lizards running nimbly
about and up the walls, diving out of sight into hiding holes, yet
sometimes leaving a little of their long tails sticking out, I cannot
vouch for these being either venomous or innocuous. They look pretty
gentle creatures, and one is rather savage to see men and boys throwing
stones at them.