Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Resting some time, a few of us ventured to climb to the castle. An
interesting legend (fully narrated in Pemberton’s _Monaco_, p. 351)
attaches to it. During the latter half of the tenth century, Haroun,
a bold African chief, in command of a formidable fleet, was cruelly
ravaging the coast and carrying off captives, among whom was a maiden
of Provence called Anna, of illustrious birth and marvellous beauty.
The vessel bearing her to Spain had been taken after a bloody battle,
in which her father and two brothers were killed. Haroun had first
pitied and protected her, and then fell violently in love with her. His
jealous wife, divining the fact from his altered demeanour, gave orders
to bind her and have her by night cast into the sea. Discovering this
in time, he saved Anna’s life, and in his rage caused his wife to be
strangled. Arriving opposite Ste. Agnese, and struck by the advantage
of the position, he landed with 100 men and his captives, the natives
flying before him, ascended the mountain, and built the fort. Here he
importuned the disconsolate maid to renounce Christianity and marry
him, but in vain; till, finding her one day praying for him, he was
overcome, embraced Christianity himself, and fled with her and all his
treasure to Marseilles, where they were joyfully received and were
married.
The return took rather shorter time than the ascent; but the expedition
occupied nearly the whole day from breakfast–time till dark. We might
have descended by two or three different routes, but chose the way by
which we had come. One of the other routes would have been by going
round the mountain and descending upon the east side; but I believe it
is very steep, and not much approved by the guides or donkey people.
Another route would have been by diverging from the road by which we
had ascended and coming down another ridge, called the Arbutus Walk
(from the circumstance that it is filled with arbutus trees, with their
brilliant scarlet and gold flower and fruit, so tempting and attractive
to young people), and terminating in the Madonna Hill, a very favourite
walk from Mentone. All in the hotel who had not taken part were eager
to hear about our expedition, and we became for the nonce heroes, as
famous as if we had made the ascent of Mont Blanc.
* * * * *
If one were to ascend simply to obtain a view, that from Ste. Agnese,
or even from the castle on the top, would scarcely repay the fatigue
of the ascent. It is dominated by a chain of rocky mountains, which
surround it on every side except that to the sea; and the view towards
the sea—that is, towards Mentone—is not more extensive than what may
be obtained from many lower points upon which we there look down,
and among others the monastery of Annunciata, which seems a long way
immediately below, although it stands high, and is a prominent object
from Mentone.