Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
To this monastery we paid several visits. It stands on the ridge
between the Carrei and Boirigo valleys, and is said at one time—by
no means, looking to its position, unlikely—to have been the former
site of Mentone and of a castle. The plateau on which now the chapel
and monastery are built is above 1000 feet high, and is attained by
another of those donkey paths of which there are so many on the hills.
In fact, various such paths, more or less steep, conduct up to it
from different parts. The main ascent from the Carrei valley is sharp
and steep enough, and has the usual allowance of twelve or fifteen
chapels or stations by the way—little places like sentry–boxes, in
which sometimes objects of worship are placed. A small church or
chapel forms an adjunct to the monastery. Its walls are covered over
with votive pictures in commemoration of miraculous escapes from great
dangers, but of the rudest description. They depict the danger escaped,
and the Virgin opportunely appearing in the clouds to interpose and
save, and are very singular specimens of art, drawn by the merest
tyros—or rather babes—in art. It is surprising how those in charge of
the church could allow it to be desecrated by such trashy attempts at
the pictorial. The thing, however, is to be seen in many other such
churches. Our first visit to this spot was at Christmas–time (29th
Dec.), when the monks dress up a little crypt below the chapel in a
very curious way, so as to represent the Nativity of our Lord. On a
raised platform a country–side is seen, with rocks, and plains, and
rustic bridges, studded over by little puppet figures or dolls about
a foot high, others in the distance smaller, personating different
characters—kings, Roman soldiers, shepherds with some woolly sheep,
and Joseph and Mary standing in the midst of all. Near them a little
babe lies on the ground, and kneeling before and adoring it a figure,
I suppose, representing one of the Magi. Nor are angels wanting to
complete the representation; while in a recess in the distant vista a
toy Noah’s Ark is set, supposed to be resting on Ararat, satisfactorily
proving by ocular demonstration that Noah’s Ark was, at the time of the
Nativity, visible. The figures are evidently carved, by the hands of
the monks, as the faces differ entirely from those of ordinary dolls,
and from each other. It must cost the monks a good deal of labour to
make the arrangements; but they have, I presume, little else to do, and
it no doubt furnishes an agreeable occupation, which doubtless they
grievously want. At stated hours of the day they may be heard with
sepulchral voices chanting service; and as they seem to have nothing
else to do, I suppose it may literally be said their vocation is, ‘_Vox
et preterea nihil_.’
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