Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
The ascent to the top was steep by a donkey path, but the town was
very curious. It has been, I believe, the scene of many battles. After
inspecting it amidst the gazing of a crowd of idle inhabitants, we
adjourned to a grassy bank a little outside, where we enjoyed our
lunch, and the four sketchers were recompensed by obtaining a view of
the town from an excellent point. As Gorbio is an excursion frequently
made, we were surrounded by children, who kept us in a state of siege
for coppers, which they are led by the injudiciousness of visitors to
expect, and it was no easy matter to shake them off. We had still a
great deal before us to do; so, as soon, as possible, the donkeys were
remounted, and we proceeded along a mountain path, gradually reaching
an elevation several hundred feet above Gorbio, on which we then looked
down. All along this path we had splendid views, including one of the
village of Ste. Agnese and the mountain on which it stands, which,
from that point presenting its edge to us, appeared like a sharp Swiss
aiguille. After a long circuit, we reached a point, at which the party
dismounted and walked to the top of a hill commanding the valley;
and then began the descent by a rough, stony, mountainous path to
Rochebrune, about two miles off. Some of our party, keeping too high
up, had to descend the mountain so perpendicularly that they could only
liken the declivity to the side or face of a house.
Rochebrune rests upon the slope of a hill looking westward, down upon
the Corniche road, on Monaco and the sea, between 600 and 800 feet
below. The ruins of a castle stand upon a rock, which is said to have
slipped down from a cliff 200 or 300 feet above. This, if true, would
be a remarkable and unique circumstance. The town itself, which is
about three or four miles from Mentone, from which it is a favourite
excursion, is very picturesque, and affords many choice bits for the
artist, I think more so than any similar town in the neighbourhood.
One of our party jocularly proposed to come and spend a fortnight
there, and take sketches; but to any civilised person it would be just
as agreeable to spend the time, if that were possible, in a rabbit
warren, to which another compared it. The view towards Monaco and the
hills beyond it is very fine, but requires to be seen before the
afternoon sun comes round. There are two ways of reaching Mentone from
Rochebrune—one, by going down to the Corniche road a little below; and
the other, by descending through terraces of fine old olive trees, one
of which, in the pathway leading out of the village, is of immense
girth, and must be of great age. It is said that some of the olive
trees in this neighbourhood are considered to be nearly two thousand
years old. The trunks of these olives are often very curious, from the
mode in which they divide or split up and twist about. By either way
to Mentone, splendid views are obtained, and the usual course on an