Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
excursion to Rochebrune is to go by one route and return by the other.
In going by the road, we skirt the tongue of land called Cape Martin.
* * * * *
One of the most interesting and most usual walks or drives from Mentone
is to this Cape Martin—to the point it is above two miles distant;
and it is at present, or was while we were there, reached either by
the rough, stony beach, disagreeable for the feet, but the shorter
way, and pleasant, as passing by the ocean and having the view open to
the scenes around. In time, it is expected that the promenade will be
extended all along the coast to the cape, which will make approach to
it by the shore a most agreeable walk. The other access, much longer,
is by proceeding along the dusty high road leading to Monaco to some
distance beyond the Hôtel? du Pavillon, and passing under a railway
viaduct which crosses the road to a rough side road or avenue which
diverges to the left and winds through a delicious plantation of
fine old olive trees, with knotted, and gnarled, and divided trunks,
and long, vigorous branches which stretch fantastically overhead and
interlace; while the sun glinting through them here casts alternate
lights and shadows on the white limestone road, and there shoots in
streaks through the openings, speckling the forest with glancing
radiance, shifting and changing as the olive boughs wave, and their
tender leaves turning now their silver breasts and now their green
backs to the breeze, shimmer in the light; while the carpet of grass
is spread underneath, dotted over with violet and anemone; and the
distance is dark, shut out by the thicket of trees, and the background
of shrubs, and banks, and hill. As the road proceeds, it again passes
under another railway bridge, the trains over which whistle and whirl
on, scaring the passers–by, and breaking incongruously on the quiet of
the scene, as if winged demons had escaped and in a state of fright
rushed in hot and fiery to disturb the tranquillity of the land and
break its peace. Then walled gardens are passed, closely planted with
orange trees, laden in bunches with their tempting fruit. Still keeping
on this rustic road amidst more olive trees, we at last arrive upon an
open part, and behold a church of curious design on the one hand, and
the blue Mediterranean on the other, and before us the avenue along the
margin of the promontory. Here it had unhappily been intended to have
built a town, and as a commencement three villas have been erected; but
the situation is not only too distant from Mentone, but is on the wrong
side of the hill, seeing the sun leaves it in cold shade soon after
noon; and thus, though commanding a splendid view all along the coast
eastward, they have not found favour, and stand silent and all but
deserted. Beyond these villas, and at the entrance to the wooded hill,
the carcass of an unfinished Roman arch, intended no doubt as a grand