Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
From Cape Martin fine views are had of Monte Carlo, Monaco, with the
more distant Antibes, and even the Estrelles; while north–eastward, as
if in long white robes, the young Mentone lies nestling or cradled in
at the foot of the high range of mountains which, like gigantic Titans,
in mute serenity hang over, and watch and guard with placid pride
the smiling, sleepy little town to which they have given birth. With
scenery so romantic, the point of the cape has become a very favourite
haunt of the artist. It is seldom a visit is paid to it in which,
if the weather be fine (for in cold weather one cannot sit long),
persons are not to be seen taking sketches or elaborating more finished
pictures, for which a capital foreground is furnished by the bent and
distorted trees.
* * * * *
But it would be endless to describe or even to enumerate all the
many walks and excursions which are possible from Mentone. These are
principally from the western side; but we had occasionally walks in
the other direction. I have already mentioned the walk to the gorge of
St. Louis. There is another walk which we sometimes had to the rocks
below and beyond the gorge, called ‘Les Rochers rouges’ from their red
colour. These derive a peculiar interest from their containing certain
caves or fissures in the rock, disclosed or opened up by the formation
of the railway, out of one of which was exhumed the skeleton, or what
is called the fossil skeleton, of a man. This, of course, is held up
as evidencing the existence of man anterior to the creation of Adam,
by those who believe in the existence of Preadamites. The skeleton is
in Paris, and I have seen neither it nor the _brochure_ of Dr. Rivière
describing the discovery; but I noticed that the sides of the cave—as
it at present stands, after the excavations for the railway—are not
more than 20 feet apart at the bottom, the cave extending probably 40
feet inward, and about 50 or 60 feet high; but these eye measurements
are sometimes deceptive. It is of very soft limestone, and in other
parts of the rocks there are huge stalactites depending. It may
therefore be very safely said that stalactite would at an early
period form with great rapidity, and speedily cover up what the cave
contained. I was informed, however, that the skeleton was found about
9 feet below the surface, in the midst of debris. In these caves, and
elsewhere round about, many flint implements have been found, and some
of them are collected in the Natural History Museum in the Hotel de
Ville at Mentone. The workmen finding them sell them to strangers for a
few pence.
Dr. Bennet’s and Mr. Hanbury’s gardens both lie in this direction—Dr.
Bennet’s, on the rocks above the Italian _douane_ station; Mr.
Hanbury’s, about a mile and a half farther on the road to Ventimiglia.
They may properly be called hanging gardens, and are not laid out as
gardens are with ourselves. Many tropical plants are growing in them in
the open air.