Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
portal to the projected new town, spans the road, which, proceeding by
the border of the promontory, and overhanging it, looks down through
the trees and rocks to the lovely sea sporting about in little pools,
or surging and breaking on its natural bulwarks, while the slopes of
the hill above on the right hand side are densely overspread with wood.
At the end of the avenue, where the shelter of the hill terminates,
the strength and usual lie of the wind are manifested in the bent and
twisted forms of the trees, most of which are inclined, curved, or
in some cases doubled down, as if bowing in lowly obeisance towards
Mentone in the north–east, the south–west winds blowing fiercely
across the ocean when they come. The walks through the forest and up
to the semaphore on the top are charming, and make Cape Martin one of
the most enjoyable of the easy excursions from Mentone, so that the
visitors have great cause to congratulate themselves that the building
speculation came to nought. If building be ever resumed, it is to be
hoped the forest will be spared to the public, and that any houses will
be placed on the west or sunny side; although it would be a mistake
there too, as it is wholly without shelter from the west. It is not
unusual for large parties to come to picnic in the woods and enjoy the
scene, bringing their lunch with them. Some houses were commenced on a
level plateau at the point, one of them suspiciously like an incipient
restaurant, but, no doubt, being found to be too much exposed, were
abandoned, and what little was put up is now going to wreck and ruin.
It is to be hoped that Cape Martin will never be desecrated by any
such concern in the future. Here, at and round the point, the land is
surrounded by a belting of rocks and sharp pinnacles, worn so by the
breaking of the waves, and upon these pinnacles the sea is continually
breaking. In stormy weather, it is beautiful to observe the waves
rolling in and striking the rocks with great violence, and dashing high
into the air, shivering into millions of shining particles, forming
spray, which spreads and scatters in brilliant showers all round.
Nor is it less beautiful, when the breeze is gentle, to watch the
waves rolling majestically in, the hot sun shining through the long
well–dressed line as if it were through purest glass of the brightest
sea–green, and then to observe the rearing crests tumbling grandly over
as they charge to the death and deliver themselves one after another on
the rocky beach, which with a calm steadiness receives the shock.