Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
The drive from Monte Carlo to Monaco is down a decline of little more
than half a mile. The Palace of Monaco is visible upon Saturdays, and
to see it specially, we devoted a forenoon. After ascending by a long
fortified or walled road within the castle, the flat summit of the
rock was reached; and here we found a large open space, or esplanade,
or _place d’armes_, facing the palace and between it and the town. The
palace, however, was not open to the public till one o’clock; so that
we first visited the town, which of course is a small one, limited to
the size of the rock, but possessing a population of about 1500. It is
intersected by narrow streets, outside of which there are shady walks
upon the south and west margins or edges of the rocks, among which we
rambled, and at parts could look down to the water, more than 200 feet
below. As the rock projects so far into the ocean, it is withdrawn
from the shelter of the mountains, and is exposed to the mistral as
well as to the north wind; so that the town itself, inhabited solely
by the native population, is no doubt often a cold residence during
winter. The principality, whose independence was recognised by the
Treaty of Paris of 1815, used to extend on the mainland fifteen miles
in greatest length by six in greatest breadth. In 1860, the Mentone
portion was ceded to the Emperor of the French for £12,000. Monaco is
now, therefore, greatly shorn; but the revenues are said to be 350,000
francs, or £14,000 yearly. The palace, a large one for a prince whose
territory is now so circumscribed, is square, with a courtyard in the
centre, round which the buildings are placed, and on one side of which
a handsome outside marble staircase leads to a splendid suite of state
rooms. We were shown through these rooms, each of which is hung and
decorated in a uniform tint or hanging, but each room differing from
the others. It was interesting, a sort of Versailles in miniature. We
were also conducted through the adjoining gardens at the extreme north
and more sheltered end of the rock, which, though small, are filled
with palm and other trees and plants growing luxuriantly, forming a
pleasant retreat to the inhabitants of the palace.
Monaco is a place of great antiquity, its origin having been traced
back as far as 1700 years B.C. Its history has been most eventful, and
is set forth in full detail in Pemberton’s _History of Monaco_, where
the oppression suffered by the people at the hands of its princes,
and the spirited resistance made, especially by the Mentonnais, who
ultimately succeeded, without violence, in throwing off the yoke, will
be found narrated.
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