Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
The villas about Mentone are, as already mentioned, like the
generality in the Riviera, painted in lively colours, and surmounted
by tidy–looking red–tiled roofs. Slate is unknown, though sometimes
roofs are covered with what appears to be lead or zinc, imparting a
little variety. The windows of all the houses have outside jalousies,
generally painted green. These Riviera houses resemble somewhat
in colouring the houses in a German box of toys, or one of those
vividly–coloured dolls’ houses sold in toyshops. They give a remarkable
brightness to the landscape, more especially where the hills are
covered extensively and monotonously with the sombre olive tree. All
houses are painted, and sometimes very fantastically, in imitation of
shaped stones, carvings, projections, and other architectural features,
and even of roofs, and they are so cleverly executed that a stranger
has often to approach close to them to detect the illusion. So far
is this sometimes carried, that I have seen a good substantial house
painted to represent it in a state of decay—an odd freak; at other
times, painted as if vegetation were, under neglect or abandonment,
springing out of chinks between the painted layers of stones. The
houses are built—with a certain amount of substantiality, though with
wonderful rapidity—of a species of rubble, which is plastered over
and sometimes neatly ornamented with stucco mouldings. Internally,
they are in general nicely finished with abundance of decoration,
particularly at the painter’s hands; though one is sometimes annoyed
to find that the plaster work is of such inferior quality as to be
full of cracks, and even to give way and tumble down. The paintings
on the ceilings are certainly wonderful specimens of art. Accustomed
as people so often are at home to paper ornamentation, they are apt
to suppose at first that these ceilings must simply be stained paper
pieces pasted on; but on examination, it is found that they are, with
some occasional imitations, all hand–painted. And although there are
many coarse specimens of this style of decoration, they are frequently
finished with great delicacy. The rooms we ourselves had in Mentone
were in this respect, as well as in others, finished with good taste
and skill; and although the ceilings were prettily painted, they were
light and suitable. Sometimes the decoration of houses is carried the
length of painting cleverly outside garden walls with scenic views,
imitation staircases and theatrical trees, fountains, grottoes,
etc. Marble is used in abundance in the houses, in chimney–pieces,
staircases (outside sometimes as well as inside), and other portions of
the buildings. Proximity to Italy renders cheap the carriage of the
rough marble, which is wrought up according to requirement at local
marble workshops. Windows are all constructed on the French fashion
of opening up the centre—a method which is suitable to the climate,
although, not being so close–fitting as our window–sashes, it would