Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
highest ambition is to keep her husband in perfect idleness. A friend
of mine, an English lady, was riding on a donkey one very hot day,
accompanied by my servant Giovanni, a San Remese, who was, of course,
trudging on foot by her side, and reflecting the heat of the day on her
face. As they went along, they met a party of country people coming
down from the mountains. In passing, a man, one of the party, stopped
and spoke earnestly to my servant, who gave a laughing reply. When
they had passed, my friend asked what the man had said. “Oh,” replied
Giovanni, “he was telling me I ought to make you get off the donkey,
and ride myself instead.” We had lectured him so often on the disgrace
of the men taking their ease while the women worked so hard, that he
quite entered into the facetiousness of the man’s proposition, an
Englishwoman being in the case.’
In the redress of these women’s wrongs, might not an excellent field
for the operations of the Women’s Rights Association be found?
* * * * *
Photographs are not cheap in San Remo; but one photographer (P. Guidi),
under the direction of Signor Panizzi, has produced a large collection,
numbering, I think, upwards of 150 specimens, size of nature, of the
botany of San Remo. These are beautifully coloured from the plants
themselves, and form a valuable and interesting illustration of the
flora of the district.
* * * * *
We remained in San Remo from Saturday till the following Wednesday.
The weather having been wet and disagreeable, we were by no means
sorry when, the Wednesday morning proving fine, we resolved to quit a
place where we had felt far from comfortable, and to proceed to Genoa
by railway. I had, on arrival, exchanged at the banker’s a circular
note, for which i got at the rate of 27·20 francs or lire per £ in
Italian paper money. It was my first experience of this kind of
money, and although it brought a premium of 22 francs per £10, the
bundle of little notes was at first by no means assuring. However, I
soon began to find it extremely convenient as well as profitable to
exchange into paper. I paid the hotel bill and the railway fares both
in paper, even although in the former case there was a notice up in
the hotel requiring (although paper is a legal tender) visitors to pay
in gold; and everywhere afterwards in Italy, paper was received as
full value for what it represented. We had here for the first time to
pay for all registered luggage according to weight. Putting railway
fare and luggage cost together, however, the expense was, especially
reckoning a deduction of 9 per cent. by use of paper, moderate. The
fare first–class from San Remo to Genoa was 15 francs each, adding
proportion of charge for luggage, nearly 3 francs[27] additional for
each, say 18 francs or 15s., and deducting exchange, 13s. 4d. for a
journey of about eighty–five miles, which is probably about a shade