Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
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We remained three nights at Spezia, and on Tuesday morning left for
Pisa, the weather having again become raw and cold.
The journey to Pisa occupied about four hours. We passed many
interesting places, and among others the Carrara quarries. Immense
quantities of the white marble, quarried from the hills adjoining the
railway, lay at the stations ready for transport. The quarrying of
this famous marble, the purer quality of which is of close grain (the
fine statuary marble), is a source of employment to a vast number of
workmen. When the traveller has time to spare, it is no doubt worth
stopping a few hours between trains to visit the place. At last we
arrived in sight of Pisa, and as we entered the town got a glimpse from
the carriage windows of the buildings which have made it celebrated.
PISA.
The weather was cold, and lunch hardly helped to warm us, so we
speedily set out to get a brisk walk and see the lions. We had hardly
emerged from the door of the Hotel de Londres when we were waylaid by
one of the loitering guides. We could not shake him off, and engaged
him at 3 francs. He proved of little use beyond taking us the most
direct route to the objects in view by a handsome bridge over the Arno,
which is probably from 300 to 400 feet wide; but it was then in full
flood, the snow melting on the mountains bringing down much water.
Proceeding up a long street, we came at the end of it, on the outskirts
of the town, to the Piazza del Duomo, where are congregated all that
may be said to make Pisa famous in the world—its cathedral, its
baptistery, its Campo Santo, and its leaning tower. Here we stood face
to face with what had been familiar to me through pictures from boyhood
as ‘the seventh wonder of the world.’ Whether it be the seventh or the
seventieth wonder of the world, I don’t know, but it was with a strange
feeling I thus for the first time saw the reality. The day was too cold
to venture the ascent to the top, from which there is an extensive
view. Controversy exists as to whether the fact of the inclination is
due to design or to subsidence of the ground. I think the latter is the
real or more likely cause, the more especially as to all appearance the
baptistery also is off the vertical. The bell tower or Campanile (178
feet high) is one of those detached belfries not uncommon in Italy, and
of which few specimens occur in England. A rather uneasy feeling is
produced in hearing the bells ring, and thinking of the vibration to
which doubtless the motion subjects a building which seems as if ready
of itself to topple over. We were glad to take refuge from the cold
in the cathedral, constructed of marble, and eight hundred years old.
Unfortunately, the sun being under cloud, we could not see it to the
same advantage as if it had been a clear day. In length it exceeds 300
feet. The transept is over 250 feet. The interior, divided into aisles