Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
by double rows of columns, is a wonderful collection of enrichment of
all kinds—pictures, statuary, carved marble, bronzes, articles in gold
and silver, and finely–ornamented pulpits and altars. We afterwards
saw many cathedrals and churches in Italy, but none to compare with
this cathedral in its peculiar description of magnificence. St.
Peter’s of Rome and St. Mark’s of Venice have their own distinguishing
characteristics entitling them to the first rank, but the Cathedral
of Pisa is just as much worthy of honour in its own line for what it
contains.
* * * * *
From the cathedral we stepped across the piazza to the baptistery,
where we were so fortunate as to witness two new–born unhappy infants
undergoing the ceremony of baptism; which, indeed, was rather a
serious ordeal, as the poor little things, not a day old, were well
rubbed with oil, besides being sprinkled with water and tickled with
salt.[28] The priest rattled through the service with great rapidity,
the women uttering the responsive amen at apparently the right places
with promptitude, as if quite accustomed to it. Before the priest came
in, I asked one of the women what was to be the name. ‘Would you give
it?’ was the reply. The building, thus detached from the church like
the Campanile (of which other specimens occur in Italy), is circular,
100 feet in diameter, surmounted by a dome 190 feet high. It is an
exquisite piece of workmanship, the font and pulpit being peculiarly
rich; the sculpture outside is also good. Within the building there was
a great ring of sound or hollow echo when the priest read the service.
* * * * *
Leaving the baptistery, we rung the bell at the door of the Campo
Santo, and were admitted. It is small in size compared with that at
Genoa, and of a very different description and interest. Its age is
great, about seven hundred years having passed since it was founded. In
shape it is a parallelogram, probably about 400 feet long by about 150
feet wide. The walls are covered with curious frescoes, some of which
are getting indistinct. Round the enclosure and by the walls, under
cover, many fine monuments in marble, old and new, mingled together,
are disposed more like objects in a museum than as forming memorials in
a place of sepulture. The interior court or burial–ground is said to
have been made up of earth (fifty–three ship–loads) brought from Mount
Calvary or some other place near Jerusalem.
* * * * *
In returning to town, we saw many shops filled attractively with
Italian sculpture in alabaster and in Carrara marble. Alabaster,
however, is soft, and is more liable to injury than marble, the groups
in which material are much dearer, but at the same time fairly moderate
compared with prices at home, although in computing price the risk and
expense of carriage have to be added.