Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
however, except where it is crossed for a short way after leaving the
Porto del Popolo by a few regular streets, the streets of Rome are so
tortuous that I do not recollect any other city, at least similar in
size, where it is so puzzling to find one’s way about. I did once or
twice adventure on a walk, just to try and familiarize myself with
the streets, but in doing so found it necessary to take the bearings
very exactly, and to keep the map in hand, to prevent my getting
bewildered. These tortuous streets are irregular and narrow, sometimes
with scarcely room for two little cabs to pass. They are causewayed,
but have no footpath. Even the three leading streets I have named
are extremely narrow. The Corso is only 40 to 50 feet wide, and the
footpaths which have been placed there are proportionately contracted,
leaving, I may say, no room in some places for two foot–passengers
to pass each other. The streets are now, however, like other Italian
towns, lighted with gas, the want of proper lighting previously having
been much felt. The principal shops are in the Corso, the Piazza di
Spagna, and the Via Condotti, which crosses from the Corso to the
Piazza. Some of the chief booksellers are in the Piazza, but the
jewellers’ and photographers’ shops are the kind which are most largely
patronized by strangers. None of the shops, however, are capacious, and
the wares they contain are in general marvellously limited in quantity.
* * * * *
Beyond the inhabited part of Rome, there are many good roads,
principally conducting to or from the gates, and leading to the country
beyond. As one passes along the streets, the eye is continually met by
churches, palaces, and other public buildings; but the great attractive
interest lies in what remains of the grand buildings of ancient Rome,
which for the most part are found in proximity to each other.