Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Of these, the one which predominates, and by its imposing mass
generally claims the first examination, is the Colosseum. It stands
nearly free from other buildings, in all the sublimity of age and
magnitude. But not far from it are the Arches of Titus and Constantine,
the ruins of the Temple of Venus, of the Basilica of Constantine, of
the palace of the Cæsars on the Palatine Hill, of the Forum Romanum,
and of many other ancient buildings and places, familiar to all who
have read about Rome, and which one could not see for the first time
without being profoundly stirred. There are gentlemen—I suppose they
may be called clinical lecturers—who give descriptions on the spot
of these interesting old places, and the information so afforded is
useful, because the results of study are imparted by the living voice
in a familiar way, and special attention is called to the historical
associations, which otherwise to most people might remain unknown.
One of these gentlemen, Mr. Forbes (charge, 3 fr. each), makes up
two parties per day, one before and one after lunch—regularity in
taking which, in Rome, is always recommended as essential to health.
I had an opportunity on one occasion of accompanying him, and there
was certainly an advantage in hearing his explanations. There is so
much, however, to see in Rome, and that of a diversified character,
that this was the only time I managed to do so. Mr. Shakespeare Wood
is another who occasionally goes out in this way, but I was apprised
that he would not form a party during the time we were in Rome. He is
said to be remarkably well informed, and is usually engaged by Mr.
Cook for his special excursions. To those who would study old Rome,
great assistance might be found in a series of instructive papers,
evincing great literary research, and evidently of minute exactness of
statement, printed in the _Transactions of the Architectural Institute
of Scotland_, written by the late Mr. Alexander Thomson of Banchory.
It would be well if these scholarly papers could be collected and
published by themselves, for, as they stand, they are not within the
reach of the general public. Some of the statements I shall hereafter
make on Old Rome will be on his authority.
* * * * *
It would not be possible, according to the plan I have adopted of
a rapid survey of what is to be seen in Rome, to give any detailed
description of the various ancient buildings, which, besides, are by
means of photographs and engravings so familiar even to those who never
have visited Italy.