Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
The drive to the Catacombs of Calixtus is very interesting; the ground
lies by the Appian Way some distance out of the city, and beyond the
Porta St. Sebastian. On the way the tombs of the Cæsars and Scipios
are passed, and in a neighbouring private garden (on entering which it
is highly proper to settle the fee to be paid) there are two buildings
sunk in the ground, termed Columbaria—pigeon–holes—apartments probably
about 20 feet square, judging from recollection. Descending by a narrow
stair, the walls are found covered over with small plates of marble,
and under each plate a little niche is formed, containing a vase. The
marble plates bear the names of persons deceased, and in the vases
below their ashes were deposited. They are curious, carrying one back
to ancient times, and becoming, too, a sort of preparative for the
visit to the Catacombs, to see which a _permesso_ is requisite, a fee
being, however, paid at exit to the conductor for each person, varying
a little in amount according to the number. As soon as a sufficient
party is collected, and waiting until the party which may be below has
reappeared, for only one set is taken at a time, the man in charge of
the Catacombs makes up the company for the visit. Each person then
lights the taper with which he or she ought to be provided (which, as
tapers are not supplied at the place, must be brought from the city,
a circumstance sometimes overlooked), and descent is made by a stair.
The visitors are rapidly marched or whisked along the narrow intricate
passages, on each side of which they see the catacombs in which the
bodies of persons deceased were formerly laid—the great burial–place
of the first Christians. There are many old Latin inscriptions, which
the guide stops a minute to point out; but with a very large number it
is difficult for all to get near him. It does not appear as if the
passages lay far below ground, I should imagine not exceeding 50 feet;
but though the air is warm, it is a dismal place, which the generality
of people, seeing once, will not care to see again. One requires to be
careful to follow the guide to avoid being lost. The examination does
not occupy so much as half an hour.
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