Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
On returning to the light of day we were glad to take a drive farther
along the Appian Way. This famous old Roman road was constructed at
enormous cost, and was 26 feet wide. At one part a mountain was cut
down 120 feet, to obtain that levelness which the Romans always desired
for their roads. In its original state it must have offered a very
remarkable scene. For, though not unusual for the Romans to bury, or at
least to erect monuments to the dead, along the side of public roads,
the Appian Way was the favourite part for entombment. For many miles
on each side it was lined by sculptured monuments or tombs in marble,
of more or less size or magnificence. But all that is now left is, in
general, nothing but portions of the brick carcases which underlay the
stone or marble surface. Vast numbers of these monuments have been
destroyed for the sake of the material. The only notable monument
remaining to some extent in preservation is the large and massive tomb
of Cecilia Metella—a circular tower 70 feet in diameter, the walls
of which are 25 feet thick. Its strength caused it at one time to be
used as a fortress. The Appian Way itself fell into ruin and became
impassable, but has now been cleared; and one can look along it and
see it proceeding as far as the eye can reach in a straight line. It
terminates at Puteoli, which when we were at Naples we visited, and so
had the good fortune, if it may be so called, to pass over both ends
of the road, immortalized by the Scripture record as that by which the
Apostle Paul went on his way to Rome.
Mr. Thomson, in an interesting paper on the _Recent Excavations in
Rome_, in which he gives, by illustrative restorations as proposed by
Canina of monuments in portions of the Way, some idea of its grandeur,
says (p. 28):
‘Altogether the Via Appia, when in its pristine glory, must have been
a wondrous scene, with its innumerable monuments extending on both
sides of fifteen miles of roadway, varied by occasional villas of
great extent and beauty, by temples, by exedræ or covered seats, and
by fountains. These are of every age and style, from the simplest
republican to the richest adornments of imperial times.
‘The Via Appia was the road by which travellers from Spain, or Africa,
or the East, arrived at the city.
‘How striking this approach to the Mistress of the World! How
heart–stirring the memories of the illustrious departed which it must
have called up in every heart!
‘We are not aware of any similar arrangement of equal extent and
grandeur among all the remains of ancient times.’