Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
At the Barberini Palace, the favourite subject of copy is what is
termed the head of Beatrice Cenci, by Guido Reni, although doubt has
been cast upon the statement that it is the portrait of her who was
executed upon being, rightly or wrongly, condemned as one of the
murderers of her father. Whoever it may represent, the eyes in this
lovely pale face, with a quiet, tender, inexpressible sorrow, fix
themselves on the spectator; but it is a melancholy and suggestively
sad picture, to which the white headgear very much adds. Why people
should desire to have copies of it, it is difficult to say. Its
attraction lies in its inimitable painting, which none of the copies
reproduce. Indeed, some of them are simply hideous or grotesque. Yet
copies, more or less bad, are seen everywhere; and not merely is the
head copied on canvas, but it is transferred to china, to wood, and
other material on which reproduction is necessarily coarse; as if the
subject in itself were attractive.
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Besides the palaces, there are regular galleries, such as the Academia
di San Luca, a collection of the old masters, although not very
extensive. Visitors also can obtain admittance to the studios of
artists and sculptors, who are always glad to see them. We did not do
much, however, in this way. We called on Mr. Glennie, an English artist
settled in Rome, to whom we had an introduction, and had the pleasure
of seeing several of his pictures, principally in water–colour.
Mr. Lawrence MacDonald, the venerable–looking old Scotchman, since
deceased, kindly with his son showed us over their studio, in which
were many fine pieces of sculpture; and Signor Rosetti was also good
enough to let us see his collection, which contained a large number of
finely conceived and executed sculptures in white marble, at prices
much below what is expected at home for similar works. A small fee (1
franc) is given at leaving to the workman who attends or opens the door.
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